tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82728344776280510752024-03-12T21:28:42.272-07:00Sophrosyne... it means "lifelong happiness"Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-60385441413222928262020-06-12T09:00:00.000-07:002020-06-12T09:02:38.858-07:00Don’t you love it when a plan comes together?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mgf15Rhbtb4/XuOlnxVnDQI/AAAAAAAAlKM/maOdUEZEzZM5PdSNtvqlw-e5HXuayFqawCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG-2001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mgf15Rhbtb4/XuOlnxVnDQI/AAAAAAAAlKM/maOdUEZEzZM5PdSNtvqlw-e5HXuayFqawCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG-2001.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking forward to summertime now<br />
that we have the boat back on<br />
our side of the border.</td></tr>
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We had a good day today, and yesterday too. Sophrosyne is
tied up at the Nanaimo Yacht Club this evening, and we can call it ‘home port’
now. Not really the end of the adventure, but definitely a milestone on the
journey.<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
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This installment begins four or five weeks ago – mid pandemic
– with the arrival of a Dockwise yacht carrier that dropped off a dozen or so boats
in Nanaimo. These are yachts from across the world that were loaded, who knows
how long ago from who knows where. Gradually these oversized boats have
dispersed but there was one remaining after the rest disappeared. With a
brightly coloured graphic in orange, and red, and yellow this straggler was
easy to spot during our pandemic routine waterfront walks. The boat is a
Balance 53 catamaran, brand new, built in South Africa and most recently a feature
display at the Miami boat show. A sporty addition to the Nanaimo waterfront for
anyone who cared to pay attention. We all thought so. But, without the fulcrum
of friendship that would be a straightforward and pretty boring story.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our new temporary permanent home</td></tr>
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Things only really get interesting because our good friend and
A-List catamaran guy couldn’t take his eyes off it. And Wayne has another worry
on his mind too – “how can I help Doug & Maureen get their Saga 43 home
from Seattle through a closed tight border”?<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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So Wayne swings into action and gets on the phone and calls
around to find the broker behind the boat and learns that they are from Seattle
but can’t get their brand new Balance Catamaran home. What to do? Well, it
turns out that if you have just purchased a brand new +/- $2 million dollar sailboat
you are roughly 20 times more motivated than us to find a way to make things
happen.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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So, Wayne arranged for another friend and delivery skipper connect
with the catamaran owners and confirm a delivery from Nanaimo to Port Townsend.
We became the back end of this story. We were able to have our boat moved up to
Port Townsend so that the delivery skipper would have a safe and touchless ride
home. And that’s how it happened.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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But the best part is that once we got the boat tied up in
our now permanent temporary spot – there was a small crowd gathered at Jimmy’s
Lanai and Tiki Bar and we enjoyed a warm summer evening with friends! It’s
great to be home.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Thanks Wayne, thanks all!<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-15971658163813124082019-05-04T19:56:00.000-07:002019-05-04T20:06:32.448-07:00A New Adventure<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It may be hard to say goodbye to French Polynesia... We will try to remember everything, but you know -- time... </td></tr>
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Well, we are just moored inside the reef between Raiatea and Taha'a waiting to receive our clearance to leave French Polynesia. If you are interested in following our trip north to Hawai'i you can see our progress at:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/Sophrosyne">https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/Sophrosyne</a><br />
<br />
Don't rush over there just yet because we won't have our exit clearance until after the weekend. And if the Gendarme is to be believed, perhaps not Monday either. No matter, we have a pretty nice holding area with excellent swimming and a nice cooling breeze.<br />
<br />
About that breeze... I have just returned from BC where I made a quick trip to look after a variety of work items. Wait, you say, you don't work! Well my gig as a part time janitor does keep me pretty busy from time to time and it was great to be home to re-connect with tenants and contractors.<br />
<br />
While I was away, Maureen was looking after the boat in Raiatea and as luck would have it she had the windiest week of weather we have had throughout the entire season. As the kids say "Mom's got skills" and I am proud to say that Maureen handled the whole situation with grace and skill. I am proud of her. Well done!<br />
<br />
In addition to the wind, Maureen has been prepping the boat for our next wee adventure which is to sail from here to Hawai'i and from there back to BC. We are hoping to be home in time to celebrate her 60th birthday in BC. (wait, can I say 60th birthday on social media)?<br />
<br />
Jimmy Philip and Terri-Lynne have joined us now and we are all set to depart northward. As I write this, folks are napping today and waiting quietly to see how this next leg will unfold. Fingers Crossed.<br />
<br />
We have had a grand time here in FP. Warm and friendly, thanks to all of those locals and visitors who have made this time special!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fPlE76wcbHk/XM5LuKe10NI/AAAAAAAAfKE/8uOCupnNOyQ7DnF1Q5QbL50-y5TGoH57QCLcBGAs/s1600/20190409_135138_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fPlE76wcbHk/XM5LuKe10NI/AAAAAAAAfKE/8uOCupnNOyQ7DnF1Q5QbL50-y5TGoH57QCLcBGAs/s320/20190409_135138_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The best fruit stand ever!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--OLm6mRO02w/XM5Lx2fEqUI/AAAAAAAAfKI/dRbkA8iACY0oXS_M6_N-dI5OkSDufCFIgCLcBGAs/s1600/20190402_115349_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--OLm6mRO02w/XM5Lx2fEqUI/AAAAAAAAfKI/dRbkA8iACY0oXS_M6_N-dI5OkSDufCFIgCLcBGAs/s320/20190402_115349_HDR.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And of course Noah of Vanilla Tours -- If you ever need your Vanilla beans massaged.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-22197320409322153442019-01-29T13:34:00.005-08:002019-01-29T13:34:43.127-08:00One Day...Sometimes it weighs heavily on me that I don't get around to adding a post or two to this blog as time passes -- but obviously -- more often I just don't worry about it too much. I notice there was only 1 post in 2018, maybe I can buck the trend in 2019?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DgpTqRMxyJY/XFDDFB6jDsI/AAAAAAAAevw/AR0accAf1DUDD3b5gv5T8UUKa9Hp9rjvgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0548-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="497" data-original-width="746" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DgpTqRMxyJY/XFDDFB6jDsI/AAAAAAAAevw/AR0accAf1DUDD3b5gv5T8UUKa9Hp9rjvgCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_0548-sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going walkabout on Moorea.</td></tr>
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<br />
So, we are anchored off the island of Raiatea, part of the Iles Sous-le-Vent (Leeward Islands) in French Polynesia (FP). A nice spot at the foot of a long bay. It's summer here in the southern hemisphere. I mention that because it factors into our lives in lots of different ways. Canadian readers will think of summer as a good thing -- we like summer. In FP it has a slightly different undertone because summer also equals cyclone season. Not that it's too hot. Temps are in the range with a high of 29 and a low of 28.<br />
<br />
Cyclone season really matters -- well -- because of the cyclones.<br />
<br />
Cyclones are fairly rare, well at least not a daily occurrence. And they rarer still in the eastern pacific where we are. They don't seem to happen at all in eastern parts of FP (Marquesas, Gambiers), but they do occur from time to time here. So we pay attention.<br />
<br />
Cyclone avoidance strategies for cruisers are shifting with the spectacular advances in forecasting- there is often lots of warning. As communications have improved we are able to get forecasts quickly and reliably. And, in theory at least boats have become more spritely so that it is possible to simply get out of the way. That's the theory.<br />
<br />
So far so good. We are about 1/2 way through summer now so our risks diminish with each passing week. In theory.<br />
<br />
But that is not what prompted me to sit down and add to this blog this morning. I was thinking to focus on a couple of observations about our experience in FP. I thought I would describe a couple of experiences from our trip into Uturora yesterday.<br />
<br />
FP is set up for tourists. We are about 13 km from town and there really isn't any good way to get there. We asked at the tourist information the other day and they directed us to the taxi stand. (it's about $50 cab fare for the 13 km ride). Maureen asked about buses and she was told that they really wouldn't be suitable for us. She persisted and we did get some sparse information. FP is set up for tourists.<br />
<br />
Going in to town is a big day for us. There really aren't any other cruisers around (see above) and boats that we do see are either local french boats, or one week catamaran charters. Neither of these groups are much into socializing with cruisers. Occasional readers of this blog will know that visiting is one of the things we enjoy most about life on the boat.<br />
<br />
Anyway, off we go to Uturoa. Well the bus information was sketchy so that didn't work out. We stick out our thumbs and were able to catch a ride into town in about 3 minutes. Nice.<br />
<br />
Our first stop in Uturoa, actually the main reason we made the trip was to visit the marina office. That went well. A friendly conversation and, we hope, a good outcome. One of those times when I am so glad that I am travelling with a professor francais...<br />
<br />
After this win, we sat on a bench to watch the flurry of action as there was a big cruise ship in town. The couple next to us was from Australia and we ended up hearing about their 'cruising plans.' The conversation started with them saying "we were in Fakarava the day before yesterday." That is noteworthy to our ears because it has taken us since November to travel from Fakarava. The second thing was the visual image of this fairly large cruise ship at Fakarava. It is 11 storeys tall, and Fakarava is about 3 metres above sea level. There are likely 3 or 4 times as many people on the boat as there are on the island. The conversation carried on and we heard of their cruising adventures over the course of about 3 months that would see them visiting Antarctica and the Aleutians, Seattle and the Seycelles. Amazing. We waved goodbye and carried on with our shopping.<br />
<br />
First stop the patisserie. Well it was almost lunch time. Even I have to admit that this little shop is an equal to anything in the Metropole.(Paris)<br />
Exquisite baking beautifully presented. I had a quiche, Maureen had a chocolate slice seven layer sparkle bedecked extravaganza.<br />
<br />
Then to the grocery store, we didn't buy too much, we weren't really all that hungry anyway.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m42LGO_6NVk/XFDDYuYr2uI/AAAAAAAAev4/fNLUVj6SfxkWWlLvdfG1E-j5362uc2hnACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m42LGO_6NVk/XFDDYuYr2uI/AAAAAAAAev4/fNLUVj6SfxkWWlLvdfG1E-j5362uc2hnACLcBGAs/s320/IMG_0662.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For some reason we don't seem to take as many photos as we used to. This one is gratuitous and arises from a demonstration of 'portrait mode' on the new iphone. Looks pretty good to me!</td></tr>
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<br />
And then the ride home. We happened to be walking out of town when Maureen noticed the bus. Even though I said don't bother, she checked and wouldn't you know it's our bus! Cool! And the bus was fun. I got on first and a cheerful grandma grabbed my arm and showed me where to sit. Maureen got on later and eventually the bus filled up with people with their shopping, and kids, friends. It is not clear to me that anyone except us actually paid to ride the bus but for 400 XPF it was worth it. We visited with my granny (Maureen interpreting) and learned that she was actually a great great granny and that Maureen had better be careful with such a handsome looking man as me!<br />
<br />
Halfway home the bus stopped at a different store and about 1/2 the people got out to carry on with their shopping. It was obvious that we were not getting off so one of the mom's asked Maureen if she wouldn't mind holding her 3 month old little girl. No ceremony, just here ya go, back in 10 minutes! Try that at home! A privilege, and a joy. It made both our days and I never even got to hold her.<br />
<br />
Well, that's what a day looks like for us at the moment. Pretty simple, pretty relaxed, but full of unexpected fun. I wonder what today will bring?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One last gratuitous photo. This is NOT what it looks like outside today. This is Hueripiti Bay on Tahaa about a week ago. Today we have grey skies and slashing (though still warm) rain. We are inside today! </td></tr>
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<br />Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-3559068680617473872018-09-27T16:34:00.004-07:002018-09-27T16:48:28.066-07:00The Good Things!Well, all is well on Sophrosyne!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LpK6bF_FIiU/W61lVEAMZAI/AAAAAAAAekE/Smad7cL8-ecFbtXFPOkvgO2hl9Yuc6UMQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="640" height="293" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LpK6bF_FIiU/W61lVEAMZAI/AAAAAAAAekE/Smad7cL8-ecFbtXFPOkvgO2hl9Yuc6UMQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_0920.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The jagged skyline of Moorea. This is the landscape the James Mitchener raves about in 'Return to the South Pacific'. Much has changed, but much remains the same, after the 70 years since his time in French Polynesia.</td></tr>
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We have been in FP for a couple of weeks now. That is long enough to get unpacked -- but not long enough for Maureen to get the 'pinch me' grin off her face. Maureen really does like the tropics -- I have lost track of the number of times she has reminded me "and I am not even cold."<br />
<br />
We have been anchored at Moorea now for 3 or 4 days. We have a nice little spot here and the weather has been fine. We were here in May and even though everything is still new -- I feel a little bit at home here.<br />
<br />
Today was shopping day.<br />
<br />
It turns out that we are not the 'big provisioners' that we hear about in the south pacific, meaning that we are always on the hunt for a shop with fresh fruit and veg. We are finding that people here eat too, and by and large, we can find anything we need to keep our tummies full.<br />
<br />
Prices, well that's a different matter.<br />
<br />
Today our grocery shopping took us into Cook's Bay where we knew there was a pretty well stocked 'Super U.' The first trip is always an adventure because one never really knows what will be on the shelves of the Super U.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CFx7C0UNrFg/W61lVEPzmtI/AAAAAAAAejw/In_jVQHI5c0N0YNAzyMTGw1dhjX28OA1wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CFx7C0UNrFg/W61lVEPzmtI/AAAAAAAAejw/In_jVQHI5c0N0YNAzyMTGw1dhjX28OA1wCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_0366.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pineapples are just coming into season here. Even though two people probably can't eat three big pineapples -- we are going to give it a try.</td></tr>
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Today it was all about the pineapples. There have been pineapples around since we got here in May but they always seen so expensive. Today these three beautiful fruit were 800XPF. How much is that you ask? Well it is about equal to a Steak Frite at the roulette. What's that? Steak frite is the most popular street food, and the roulette is the food truck that sells them. Steak frite is a 1/2 baguette loaded with french fries and few pieces of (usually marginal) beef. If that doesn't already make your mouth water you just need to add the 'sauce tahitiene' which has the consistency of soy sauce, and the taste of maple syrup!<br />
<br />
We already know that baguette are subsidized across the entire Metropole meaning that anywhere in French Polynesia these loaves are 53 cents. They are delivered each day -- fresh at 06:00 and again at 09:00 -- and they are available at every grocery store and gas station. But don't try to find one after lunch (after 10:00 usually) because they are almost certainly sold out.<br />
<br />
Just so you don't think I am bragging about our miserly shopping, I must disclose that the full bill was closer to $200 CDN. "That's a lot of baguette" you say. True, but less when you factor out the beer and cheese (I mean cheese and beer).<br />
<br />
We are back at the boat now, we have finished our lunch, and after a wee rest it will probably time for a swim.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GNDP9p-FslY/W61lSe5pYNI/AAAAAAAAej8/Gy4dyrbdKu09oz_vLWdoQg3JRYUWHc9vwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="578" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GNDP9p-FslY/W61lSe5pYNI/AAAAAAAAej8/Gy4dyrbdKu09oz_vLWdoQg3JRYUWHc9vwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_0895.jpg" width="289" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At anchor in O'punuho Bay in Moorea.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warm, and happy!</td></tr>
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<br />
Last night at dinner Maureen said to me "I don't have enough fingers to count the ways that this has been a good day."<br />
<br />
Maureen is warm and happy, life is good.<br />
<br />
All is well on Sophrosyne.<br />
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<br />Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-57764783525509577282017-02-24T08:19:00.000-08:002017-02-24T11:23:44.039-08:00Four Bars<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4-XfjbfyHfU/WLCHeqWyRhI/AAAAAAAAZrM/w9x_NKfdHN4Y6bOPzES-CsXw5Jj1hjq8QCLcB/s1600/IMG_1060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4-XfjbfyHfU/WLCHeqWyRhI/AAAAAAAAZrM/w9x_NKfdHN4Y6bOPzES-CsXw5Jj1hjq8QCLcB/s320/IMG_1060.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maureen catches an early lead in the race down<br />the mighty steps of Mt. Hobson.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We have been almost a week at Great Barrier Island now.
Tomorrow we will make the move toward Kawau Island – we have had many reports
that this is a great place to visit and no reason to doubt the veracity of that
information.</div>
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It is late now – I had been lying awake thinking about some
of the events over these past few days and thought I should try to capture some
of the feeling of the place.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I suppose calling anything that has happened over the past
few days an ‘event’ overstates the case a bit…</div>
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It is impressively dark night tonight. We are nearly at the
new moon and there is no other light except masthead anchor lights of the 6 or
10 boats moored across the bay. It is black enough that these lights are easily
confused with stars. Some folks might say that the anchor lights, and the presence
of the other boats in such an otherwise secluded setting, spoils the effect?
That is not our experience.</div>
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We are anchored in Kiarara Bay tucked between Great Barrier
Island on one side and Kiakora Island on the other. The close harbour gives the
impression of being on a lake, in the middle of the ocean. Surrounding us on
all sides are the remnants of an ancient Kauri forest. To be fair -- you pretty
much have to imagine the kauri as they are all gone now – at least the 1000
year old trees that were in such favour across the planet 200 years ago. Great
Barrier today is a different place. Much of the island is managed by Auckland council
as parkland, and considerable efforts are evident to control invasives and
re-establish the Kauri forest – that takes time.</div>
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We didn’t intend to stay here quite so long but we have
found each morning that there really was no good reason to leave.</div>
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Each morning my day starts in front of the computer looking
after e-mail: “Doug there is a broken bottle in the parking lot”, “Doug the
bathroom light on the second floor is not working”, “Doug, we have no hot water
on the fourth floor”. Although we are located in the opposite hemisphere -- it
is an enduring miracle of the modern world that I am able to respond to and
manage affairs 12,000 km away just as if I was sitting in my office at home. At
least I can do this as long as I have Internet access and one of the great joys
of Great Barrier Island is looking at my phone and seeing four bars of
beautiful Vodaphone cellular coverage!</div>
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Another great thing about NZ generally, and Great Barrier
specifically is the tramping. We have walked all over Great Barrier and Kiakora
Island in the last few days. The best of these tramps was the walk up to Mt. Hobson.
From this highest point you can see Auckland in the west -- and Tahiti to the
east – (on a clear day.)</div>
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So we got up early the other day and packed a lunch and
headed to shore in the dinghy to the trailhead (I guess they would call it a ‘tramphead’?).
As we motored in there was another dinghy heading in the same direction. We
have a 9.9hp outboard and they had a 3.5hp so we handily won the first leg -- getting
to the beach first. The second leg went to the Kiwi team as they flipped down
their dinghy wheels and smartly pulled themselves above the high tide mark. We
were a little longer removing our 235 kg. four stroke monster off the back of the
dinghy and walking it up the beach separately. I know you are thinking “why don’t
you have dinghy wheels”? (ask me about that later…)</div>
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The walk up to Mt Hobson is only about 5.6 km and less than
half of that is vertical. But it is an impressive piece of infrastructure. It
includes boardwalk sections built to protect nesting habitat and these are
beautifully crafted. Long sections three or four hundred metres constructed
dead level and with beautifully cut graceful curves winding through the trees. In
my mind -- I was comparing it to the decrepit condition of our West Coast Trail and
thinking – score another one for the kiwis.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Anyway with a supreme effort Team Canada did catch the kiwis
further up the trail (they were resting and sipping tea -- have I mentioned yet
that they looked to be in their 70s?). We all arrived at the lookout at
lunchtime and had a nice visit – everyone appreciating the natural splendor.<o:p></o:p></div>
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On the way down Team Canada wisely took a headstart and
began to work our way down the 1,479 steps while the kiwis were finishing their
mid-day meal. At about the ½ point we had noticed a pool on the nearly river
with a nice cascade of water flowing over – too good to pass up on a hot
afternoon.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It was perhaps a bit cheeky but without a change of clothes
we would have to make a furtive dip as the only downside of our private
swimming hole was that there is a commanding overlook from the bridge. No damage
done -- we were back on the trail, fully clothed, and ready to make our final
descent when the kiwis arrived. Only the briefest “so you had a swim” to betray
our indiscretion.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Back at the dinghy, I was waiting for the late arrival of
the other half of Team Canada, watching a family pull up to the beach with their
two little girls each with life jackets and matching Benetton sun hats. I said hello
and with that two word intro they responded “you must be from the Canadian boat”<o:p></o:p></div>
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How did they know that?<o:p></o:p></div>
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We visited. They have been cruising with their young family
for a few years now having started in Europe. We agreed to find a time to share
stories because that have just spent a season in French Polynesia (where we are
headed) and we have an excellent set of waypoints for Fiji (where they are
heading).<o:p></o:p></div>
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By now it was mid afternoon and we headed back to the boat.
On our way by Team Kiwi called out “come over for a drink at five?” “Sure.” I
tell the story this way because when we did come over for sundowners aboard <i>Windlied</i>, the first order of business
was to exchange names. I still find it to be a wonderful feature of the cruising
life that it is normal to strike up a conversation and a friendship over the
course of just a few minutes without even knowing the person’s name. We had a
great few hours on <i>Windlied</i> and
learned a bit about John and Barbara’s life in NZ about their three adult
children, their grandchildren, their life as market gardeners, about the outsized
impacts of Chinese investment on real estate prices in NZ, about the impacts on
agriculture, about books and about movies.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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We must have talked about fishing too because although <i>Windleid</i> left early this morning we had
a ‘woo-hoo’ over the side of the boat about mid day and when I jumped up to see
what the ruckus was about they were ghosting by close to the boat and Barbara
was holding out small bag of fresh Snapper fillets at the end of the boathook --
and just enough time to reach out and grab it. I find this kindness touching because
it was so utterly unexpected. Wherever they had been fishing, it was certainly
out of their way to come back into this bay here to see us. There is no
expectation of a return favour, or even seeing one another again. We don’t have
a surname or any real ongoing point of connection -- just that memory of them
ghosting by – delivering a gift.<o:p></o:p></div>
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At almost the same moment we had a dinghy on the other side
of the boat which was the family I had mentioned above. They were heading to
the beach so that the girls could play and invited us to come ashore and trade
cruising insights. We spent 3 hours they them this afternoon while the girls
played in sand and water without a peep. It was fun.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Thinking about all of that, and all the stars in the sky
tonight, I have a soft spot for those ½ dozen masthead lights and the kindness
and shared experience they represent. We will leave in the morning and never
know who we might have missed here if we had stayed a little longer.</div>
Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-47423972170759455262017-02-18T05:45:00.001-08:002017-02-18T11:59:48.559-08:00A Pretty Impressive Light Show<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-frKeXCrHRwI/WKhGzGu2seI/AAAAAAAAZpQ/rnuRcJKHB-k1owgl-YnmWwaoauvylv9RwCEw/s1600/IMG_1001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-frKeXCrHRwI/WKhGzGu2seI/AAAAAAAAZpQ/rnuRcJKHB-k1owgl-YnmWwaoauvylv9RwCEw/s320/IMG_1001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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This afternoon Maureen had drawn my attention to the fact that it has been 14 months since we last updated this blog. She sounded a bit alarmed -- like maybe someone has been stealing our blog posts?<br />
<br />
I guess I was thinking about that when I was awakened this evening.<br />
<br />
We are anchored now at Great Barrier Island in NZ. It is one of those places that is both far, and not far. It is about 40 nautical miles offshore (the way we came) and sparsely inhabited. Far enough away that it takes just a bit of effort to get here but close enough that any self respecting kiwi would still get here on a paddleboard.<br />
<br />
This, our second day at Great Barrier Island, was a good one. One of those surprisingly rare days where we didn't get off the boat, and didn't even think about getting off. We have both enjoyed puttering at boat chores, and reading, and staying dry.<br />
<br />
Great Barrier has been shrouded in low clouds since we got here -- like Prince Rupert but warmer. The rain comes and goes and when it arrives it is impressive. It rains hard for about 5 minutes and then stops. I collected enough rain water to do the dinner dishes just by holding a bucket under the corner of our solar panels. But then the rain stops and we can go back to whatever it is we were doing.<br />
<br />
I had two jobs today. One was to continue to clean and patch and repair our ratty old inflatable. The other was to work through the rigging on our spinnaker pole so that it can be deployed more easily as a whisker pole for downwind sailing. This is a job that involves quite a bit of looking at the current setup -- which just doesn't make sense -- and then going to read my book. Eventually I found the breakthrough adjustment and as I was removing and adjusting mast fittings to accommodate the new setup I realized that it had never been right from the beginning of time. Sometimes progress is slow on Sophrosyne.<br />
<br />
That all brings me to the point of the story where I was awakened by the sound of someone smashing pots and pans above my head. Not loudly, and not persistently but just enough to get my attention. When we sleep on Sophrosyne our heads are +/-3/8" from the mast so that any sound that the mast makes is telegraphed emphatically to our attention down below. In this case, as I had run back and forth during the day to avoid the rain showers, I had not clamped the bottom end of the spinnaker pole into the bracket so that as the boat moved the bottom end of the pole swing out and then swung back in to hit the mast.<br />
<br />
Having solved that mystery I walked back down the deck and noticed the sparkling water much like the reflection of a full moon -- except that you will recall that we are living inside of a rain cloud tonight and there is no moon or stars to be seen beneath the thick cloud cover.<br />
<br />
As I looked more closely I could see that I was actually watching fish swim in the black night from the bio-luminescence of the water. It was impressive -- arresting. I have seen memorable displays of bio-luminescence before: a friend's black lab swimming in the water at Egmont; the wash off the back of Warrior sailing through the night at 18 or 20 knots. But this was something else again.<br />
<br />
Magic! I got Maureen out of bed and we watched the improbable light show together.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
ADDENDUM</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7QANwsnBR2E/WKimAKQ2UwI/AAAAAAAAZqE/h0hYHCchWTMPt4Sbc0smBL3pLibtGaVjACEw/s1600/GBI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7QANwsnBR2E/WKimAKQ2UwI/AAAAAAAAZqE/h0hYHCchWTMPt4Sbc0smBL3pLibtGaVjACEw/s320/GBI.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As a final act to the Light Show, this was the view from Sophrosyne<br />this morning. Sometimes you just can't make this stuff up!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RPl-LaDC2a0/WKhOvH-NK0I/AAAAAAAAZpk/c-2hr8RBx0gCsou0nBKYpWzBzs-KEiZRgCLcB/s1600/IMG_1036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RPl-LaDC2a0/WKhOvH-NK0I/AAAAAAAAZpk/c-2hr8RBx0gCsou0nBKYpWzBzs-KEiZRgCLcB/s320/IMG_1036.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Walking to Cape Brett.<br />
As is so often the case in NZ, there is an excellent trail<br />
out to Cape Brett. More up and down<br />
than Maureen would prefer but with outstanding<br />
vistas all along the way.<br />
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<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">a<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TJL3x68T_es/WKhOvwDlb5I/AAAAAAAAZpo/GmofaEzOeCYVmM4V0l5KzadAETxQ_WxGgCLcB/s1600/IMG_1040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TJL3x68T_es/WKhOvwDlb5I/AAAAAAAAZpo/GmofaEzOeCYVmM4V0l5KzadAETxQ_WxGgCLcB/s320/IMG_1040.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The lighthouse at Cape Brett. Well worth the effort.</td></tr>
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Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-61643076358408284052015-12-18T15:23:00.000-08:002015-12-18T15:23:09.868-08:00City Mouse, Country Mouse<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YB9pFwPYFRc/VnSPdhK5B2I/AAAAAAAAVnQ/BbAtj8psVMw/s1600/IMG_1158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YB9pFwPYFRc/VnSPdhK5B2I/AAAAAAAAVnQ/BbAtj8psVMw/s320/IMG_1158.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We have had a wonderful couple of weeks in Kauring-Gai-Chase National Park just north of Sydney. Lovely anchorages and great walks -- which is something you don't always find while cruising. Here Maureen has summited Towler's Lookout.<br />This is significant only because you can (almost) see our boat from here. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AIjXAB2orC8/VnSPYXAnenI/AAAAAAAAVnA/naRpTYhf3Us/s1600/IMG_1161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AIjXAB2orC8/VnSPYXAnenI/AAAAAAAAVnA/naRpTYhf3Us/s320/IMG_1161.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We have been warned to watch for 'crocodiles' in Australia.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-34eHdP2r9oY/VnSPgCe1EhI/AAAAAAAAVnY/XKu4k0_AqOw/s1600/IMG_1198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-34eHdP2r9oY/VnSPgCe1EhI/AAAAAAAAVnY/XKu4k0_AqOw/s320/IMG_1198.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One our our favorite surprises was to find out how close we were to the Great North Walk. 168 kms. in total -- one can walk all the way to Newcastle from here. (We didn't do that...)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cnsdCcE9Z0g/VnSPd43E1hI/AAAAAAAAVnM/l69lV06n7a0/s1600/IMG_1206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cnsdCcE9Z0g/VnSPd43E1hI/AAAAAAAAVnM/l69lV06n7a0/s320/IMG_1206.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turns out that watching the tide can be important. We are standing by our dinghy when we took this photo.<br />I have noticed that other cruisers have little wheels for their dinghies. I guess they don't watch the tides either?</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aDrp3gRWF_k/VnSPX4WSIKI/AAAAAAAAVm8/J-eDtik4Ge4/s1600/IMG_1183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aDrp3gRWF_k/VnSPX4WSIKI/AAAAAAAAVm8/J-eDtik4Ge4/s320/IMG_1183.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of our favorite little bays on Smith's Creek.<br />It was just like this -- until Maureen waved at the guys on the jetski -- before long we were joined by new neighbours on a rented houseboat called 'LUXURY AFLOAT'<br />Gotta love that Aussie sense of humour!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oDUdGK22uHs/VnSTrUfnYcI/AAAAAAAAVnk/ZUTJ3YqZAx4/s1600/IMG_2991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oDUdGK22uHs/VnSTrUfnYcI/AAAAAAAAVnk/ZUTJ3YqZAx4/s320/IMG_2991.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We got up early this morning and sailed further in to Sydney Harbour. We have found a little spot in Blackwattle Bay which is pretty much in the centre of the action. This afternoon we will head ashore and see what we can see on this great city. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YMOMy9cuL2M/VnSFYAFXYJI/AAAAAAAAVjc/iJYamVnRv5Q/s1600/IMG_1228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YMOMy9cuL2M/VnSFYAFXYJI/AAAAAAAAVjc/iJYamVnRv5Q/s320/IMG_1228.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes. Those are 10 storey apartments in the background... Comanche out sail testing in Sydney Harbour -- before the big race.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tg1_MR0WOgw/VnSFYoB3XSI/AAAAAAAAVjg/JA1xygXcEmM/s1600/IMG_1232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tg1_MR0WOgw/VnSFYoB3XSI/AAAAAAAAVjg/JA1xygXcEmM/s320/IMG_1232.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sometimes things just work out.<br />
The pinnacle of our cruising success over these past few weeks has been finding these 2 litre boxes of wine at Aldi for $6. Sure -- it tastes terrible -- but look at how nicely it fits on the shelf!</td></tr>
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<br />Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-75126644809708966202015-11-26T20:35:00.002-08:002015-11-26T20:35:34.008-08:00Things you notice about AustraliaWe are tied up at Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club today and
just getting ourselves prepared to head south to Pittwater in the morning. The
trip is only 60 miles but we have been at NCYC for so long and we have enjoyed
ourselves so much that we are wondering if we even know how to get the boat
untied again. NCYC have been fantastic hosts! There are many lessons about
running a successful yacht club that one can learn from these guys. They are
very very good at managing their facility. It is busy, friendly, efficient and
fun. But then, you notice that about Australia – they are pretty good at their ‘clubs.’<br />
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CU_z9M3gJns/VlfYYqDGDQI/AAAAAAAAVco/Eq-phMSdAk8/s1600/IMG_1307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CU_z9M3gJns/VlfYYqDGDQI/AAAAAAAAVco/Eq-phMSdAk8/s320/IMG_1307.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sophrosyne is tied up at NCYC -- our home for the past month.<br />Great facility with good showers (important) and<br /> a Happy Hour every day (more important).<br />Tonight we are having American Thanksgiving at the Club<br />prepared in the finest Australian Tradition.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
S.L.S.C. – That means, I think, Surfing and Life Saving
Club, and there are lots of them. Maureen and I went for a walk the other day
along the Memorial Walkway which is a suspended walkway connecting Newcastle’s
downtown residential area with a series of beaches and ocean baths. We walked
past Beach Bar SLSC, <a href="http://www.merewetherslsc.com.au/site/index.cfm?display=300877">Meriweather SLSC</a>, Newcastle SLSC and a couple of other
ones besides. It was the weekend and each of these clubs had swimming lessons
and shoreside activities for 100s of kids ranging from 3 to 16. The most
familiar part of the experience for us was the smell of frying onions though as
some parents were working the concessions while all the rest donned brightly
coloured pinny’s and bathing caps and were shepherding the ‘little nippers’
back and forth across the surf. Everyone was having a grand time and the time
honoured ballet unfolded seemingly without effort.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were thinking of the ‘little nippers’ yesterday when we
went for a swim. It was 42 deg. C and the wind was humming so we hopped into our
rented car (because it had air conditioning) and drove to the beach. At 42 deg.
C even Maureen goes for a swim -- but it is not really straightforward. We know
enough to swim between the flags (we had been told they are pretty good at spotting
the riptide). But there are still waves, and they were pretty big. Maureen was
walking out slowly getting used to the still pretty cold water – until the
first wave came through -- and then that was pretty much it. Once I found her
again she was ready to head out into the deeper water past the biggest breaking
waves. It was fun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Later in the day Maureen was chuckling when she bent over noticing
that the ocean was running out through her nose. At least she said it was water.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was thinking to myself that even girls think snot is funny.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Later in the day we went to join in with some of the other
rally members for Sundowners and then out to the most amazing Jazz club I have
even seen! We had been told about Jack McLaughin’s jazz band, but just like you
are thinking right now, I said to myself. ‘Whatever’.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Well, Jack had his 81<sup>st</sup> birthday last night and
he celebrated playing at the Carrington with his son-in-law who also had his 41<sup>st</sup>
birthday. They were serenaded by the lead singer who was a gal who looked like
she had just finished up at the library, except that when she sang it made
Norah Jones look like an amateur. There were only about 30 or 40 of us at the
bar so we all pretty much had front row seats. I visited with the bass player
during their break just to say how much we were enjoying the music. He told me
that he was 66 and had been playing with Jack for 42 years. And I haven’t even
mentioned the drummer!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I know it sounds like all we do is visit the beach and have
fun, but we have been to a couple of wine tastings in the Hunter Valley too!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It has been a fun couple of weeks. Fun for us because
Australia is the first point on this trip where we have been able to source
boat parts without needing to arrange complex shipping. Don’t get me started on
“the pallet”.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Nuxt8dSF5s/VlfYYrbZtpI/AAAAAAAAVck/Kmtr2xmLUwQ/s1600/IMG_1352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Nuxt8dSF5s/VlfYYrbZtpI/AAAAAAAAVck/Kmtr2xmLUwQ/s320/IMG_1352.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maureen models our new salad tongs. Purchased from<br />K-Mart for $2 they fill a significant deficiency aboard Sophrosyne.<br />Hopefully now we can keep the salad in the bowl and not on the floor?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What does that mean? Well it means we have a new toilet! We
went in to the shop to get a gasket kit for the old toilet but since the whole toilet
was on sale we got rid of the old scratched seat at the same time. Maureen was
happy!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For my part I found I could finally get good quality stainless
hose clamps – I was happy. I mean, it is not such a pleasant job that I am keen
to do it again real soon so I just bought the good hose clamps.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That is just the beginning of the bathroom renovation. We
have also replaced our broken plexiglass shower enclosure. We found some
beautiful frameless mirrors that were big enough to cover the holes from the
PFO. And on a boat that is pretty much a complete renovation – there really isn’t
anything else in there. It looks good!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With that success under our belt you can imagine that the
kitchen was next. New custom carpets (from Bunnings) and a fire blanket to hang
next to the stove. Not having a fire blanket has been bugging me ever since
Yacht Kate asked us back in Fiji “do you guys have a fire blanket?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-reVVP1_7PgI/VlfaMQLkPpI/AAAAAAAAVdo/ZXjsu4MSToM/s1600/IMG_2883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-reVVP1_7PgI/VlfaMQLkPpI/AAAAAAAAVdo/ZXjsu4MSToM/s320/IMG_2883.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Allan, from A&R Mobile Sharpening came to the club parking lot<br />and sharpened all of our knives and scissors.<br />That is good service! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And more besides. We now have a nice small pair of salad
tongs so that when you set them down on the bowl they don’t tip the salad bowl
onto the floor. And the high point -- for Gord, and Brent, but everyone else
besides -- we have sharp kitchen knives. It takes a larger population to have a
mobile sharpening truck that will come to the Yacht Club parking lot to sharpen
knives and scissors. And I really do think it takes Australia to have that
truck kitted out with a 1000 watt Yamaha gas generator (inside the truck) to
provide the electricity to run the sharpening tools.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You won’t believe me, but space allows me to report on only the most significant boat improvements made in Newcastle. There were many
more besides!<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Well tomorrow we will sail down to Pittwater. We have been
told that this is a pretty special part of Australia so we are looking forward
to the visit. After that we will sneak around the corner and spend a couple of
weeks in Sydney Harbour. Should be fun.</div>
Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-41344833860747487572015-10-11T22:57:00.000-07:002015-10-11T22:57:46.860-07:00Fat & Happy<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rb1nlYBU75k/VhtE9lz0JKI/AAAAAAAAUqU/mdGtWlAV_Qw/s1600/IMG_2797-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rb1nlYBU75k/VhtE9lz0JKI/AAAAAAAAUqU/mdGtWlAV_Qw/s320/IMG_2797-sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love baguette!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, we have been sitting at anchor in Port Moselle for a
couple of days.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We came back to town to enjoy the wonders of a shower on
land -- and to gorge ourselves on the bounty that New Caledonia provides. I
haven’t quite been able to sort out whether the abundant delights of this place
are derived from its great wealth of natural resources (the largest copper
deposit in the world -- to take note of just one), or its obvious connection
with French history and culture (baguettes here are the same price and quality as
in the 5<sup>th</sup> arrondissement in Paris – 12,000 km away). Or whether one
causes the other?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For the purposes of this story it is only important to
observe that it is curious and delightful.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In the past, as we were getting ourselves and the boat
sorted out we noticed that we could cruise by ourselves for about 2 weeks at a
time. After two weeks, if we were very careful, we could limp back into the
marina with empty water tanks and dead batteries. We would plug into shore
power and fill our watertanks and then head out exploring again.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ihWCoDE3I-4/VhtE6JHB1CI/AAAAAAAAUqQ/DH3Tu1v91-0/s1600/IMG_1231-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ihWCoDE3I-4/VhtE6JHB1CI/AAAAAAAAUqQ/DH3Tu1v91-0/s320/IMG_1231-sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">We have couscous and rice -- and a couple of cans of corn.<br />But really, doesn't this look like it's worth a trip to town?</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now, in our second season, we feel more like we have some of
these basic building blocks of cruising life behind us.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We have new lithium Ion batteries and they just won’t quit.
Each day I smile as my eye catches the flashing green light on the monitor of
our solar charge controller. Its rapid blinking tells me that it has our house
batteries fully charged and is now shunting excess electricity (didn’t we just
run the watermaker for 4 hours?) . Strange that I still find this a magical
process – like a circus clown pulling a rabbit out of the hat -- I know the
trick, I have seen it done a million times, but it still makes me smile every
time.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Why is this important? Well, it seems that we now have to
watch for a new set of cues about when to check back into town. Whoops the
fridge is empty!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
True we do still have a good supply of couscous and rice and
beans and noodles, and a cupboard full of tins and jars so that we can manage a
good and wholesome meal, but with all that cheese and chocolate just around the
corner it does seem like a crime against nature not to be doing our part to
help sustain the great French culture. And who needs wholesome?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wouldn’t it be nice to go back to that pizza place where
they make the Quartto formaggio thin crust pizza? And the café gourmand?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And so it was that I was waiting this morning in the cockpit
for the crew to get organized for the shoreside adventures (as I sometimes do) and
I noticed a couple of boats sailing across the small harbour. I noticed these
boats in particular because they are working their way through a mooring field
which has close to a thousand boats of all shapes and sizes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now it is true that I don’t really have a clue how many boat
are moored in the harbour -- so let me just say that there are A LOT of boats!
There are always a lot of boats in New Caledonia we are told but in October, as
the seasons start to change, and boats collect from all corners of the Pacific this
harbour hits MAX capacity. We are ourselves moored at the edge of the moorage
area. I say ‘the edge’ generously because we are actually about 20 metres
outside of the well-marked and designated area for mooring and well into that
part of the harbour which is also well marked as a traffic lane. But we are not
alone because there are boats moored all around us and it seems that everyone
is understanding of this seasonal anomaly. And we don’t really feel alone
because we know most of the boats around us, Songlines, Huck, Bella vita,
Scotia, and many more too. We have seen many of these boats in Fiji, and in
Vanuatu, and we have visited with many of these folks over the past two years.
We don’t know everyone, but just like walking down your street, even if you
don’t know everyone in every house it still feels a bit like home.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, I was sitting in the cockpit this morning with the
binoculars, doing what all good neighbours do. I was spying on our neighbours --
and I caught a glimpse of these boats working their way through the ‘hood’ -- and
I recognize them too. They are from the Base Nautique, which we had walked by
yesterday. They are ten identical boats, new and rigged identically. They are
about 6 metres long, fast, and I can tell even from a distance that they are
well handled and that they mean business.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have not mentioned yet that it is windy. Across this very
crowded harbour the wind has been whistling at 25 (gusts to 30) for the past 3
days. There are no waves but the boat still dances on its mooring and it’s
‘raincoats on’ for the dinghy ride into town as the warm salt spray gets blown
off the tops of every wake and ripple. The wind is important to my story
because these 10 sport boats are coming toward me and in every case the full
main is inside out and they are driving to weather on the small jib alone, and
they are moving quickly toward an open area in the harbour. Behind them is a
wonderfully kitted out committee boat, and behind that 2 large centre console ribs
as mark boats, 2 more umpire boats, and several more coach boats, and I think,
this could be fun to watch.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now remember that I am waiting for the crew to be ready to
town so I only have about 35 or 40 minutes to watch but it is marvelous. The
race boats were pairing off for heats of match racing and these folks are well
schooled because there was a start every 10 minutes and the maneuvering was
fast, aggressive, and purposeful. And did I mention that it was windy?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So we did eventually pick our way across the harbour. There are
all shapes and sizes in Port Moselle and our path took us across what I will
call the ‘local’ section. It reminds me that all harbours seem to have an area
that we might call the ‘Last Stop’. In this situation I am always reminded of
trying to find our way into the marina after a Transpac race. We were watching
for markers and noticed what we thought was a stick marking the channel
entrance. As we got closer we realized that it was the top section of a mast.
That boat had sunk at its anchor and all that was showing above the water was
the top 2 or 3 metres of the mast.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But in New Caledonia it isn’t the boats that are not used
that catch your eye -- we see those everywhere. It is the boats that ARE used.
People are on the water everywhere. They sail. They windsurf. They kiteboard.
And judging by the outstanding fish market, it seems they fish too!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our walk to the pizza joint at Baie du Citron takes about 30
minutes and winds across two beaches. These are remarkably different because
one is in the lee and one is in the wind. The leeward beach is just another
beautiful south pacific beach. Azure blue water, sunny, warm, families playing
in the water, kids swimming, parents reading – the stuff of life. But the walk also
takes us across a short isthmus to the windy side. This is a short walk, maybe
250 metres but it is worlds apart. The first thing we noticed on the windy side
was kid’s water toys being blown along the beach like missiles. I tried to
catch the first one, but even though they look like simple styrofoam toys they
are actually highly sophisticated stealth devices designed to alter course
sharply if a human gets within 2 or 3 metres. Clever.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But the beach is orderly too. There are the windsurfers.
Maybe a hundred or so, and they are fast. Very fast. I have seen Jason Thompson
wind-surfing at Wanasing beach -- but with the greatest respect -- this is a
new level. Unbelievably fast.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In another corner of the baie are the kitesurfers. And they
are good too. Skitting along and then off a wave and 10 metres into the air –
for 10 or 15 seconds. And just beyond is a small island where there are 20 or
30 more boats all picnicking and enjoying a spring day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I live on a boat and I am thinking that I have not even scratched
the surface!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Later in the day, back in the hood, I am reflecting on how
all these boats came to be here in Port Moselle. In our little area there are a
couple of dozen boats that are heading into the final stages of the Island Cruising
Association Rally that started for them in NZ in April or May. They have all
sailed together from NZ to Tonga to Fiji to Vanuatu and now to New Caledonia. Fun.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Over these next two weeks everyone will sail back down to NZ
to avoid the summer cyclone season which is approaching over the next month or
two. Maybe, if they are smart, they will do the same thing again next year. I
know that I am thinking “how can I work that into my plan”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We are part of a different group about to start making our
way to Australia. The next leg of our journey is as part of the Down Under
Rally which will see us heading to New South Wales.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Next week we have the arrival of crack crewman Kent Locke from
Nanaimo to round out our roster and then we will start watching the weather for
a chance to make our own 1,000 km. crossing to Australia.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Looking forward to it mate!<o:p></o:p></div>
Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-88147701451576580712015-09-27T19:29:00.001-07:002015-09-27T19:29:25.107-07:00Pines & Palms<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c4Z2GUl5ihc/Vgik9UUvWCI/AAAAAAAAUeA/1bynBUAEjlU/s1600/sophrosyne%2Bportrait-caleigh%2Bblog%2Bpos2t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c4Z2GUl5ihc/Vgik9UUvWCI/AAAAAAAAUeA/1bynBUAEjlU/s320/sophrosyne%2Bportrait-caleigh%2Bblog%2Bpos2t.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A masterpiece created by Caleigh, depicting Soophrosyne's wonderous crew.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
New Caledonia is okay I guess -- If you like eating two baguettes a day and swimming on white sand beaches...<br />
The majestic Sophrosyne Yacht has made it's way to Isle of Pines, 70 miles out of New Cal's capital city. Surrounded by palm trees, huge turtles, and a beautiful full moon, Sophrosyne's crew are starting to wonder why anyone would ever want to leave this magical spot.<br />
<br />
Yesterday's outing to the Isle of Pines highest point gave us a view of the whole island. We tramped up the rocky, mars-like path to the summit, and looked out at the turquoise ocean in awe. <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AbuIfi_qv3o/VgilXG7WThI/AAAAAAAAUeI/4yYtrqWBtMg/s1600/Pines%2Band%2BPalms.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AbuIfi_qv3o/VgilXG7WThI/AAAAAAAAUeI/4yYtrqWBtMg/s320/Pines%2Band%2BPalms.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of Isle of Pines beautiful pines (and palms)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
How lucky we are to get to spend one more whole week here!<br />
<br />
A plus tard! <br />
(Now that my first post is done, it is official that I won't be kicked out of UUD)<br />
<br />
-Caleigh<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-56612829959458642692015-09-18T15:53:00.003-07:002015-09-18T15:53:32.612-07:00Lights! C'est magnifique<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lq34BVEv7yo/VfyS3CpAuQI/AAAAAAAAUbI/2p-0hGL-y28/s1600/P1030313-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lq34BVEv7yo/VfyS3CpAuQI/AAAAAAAAUbI/2p-0hGL-y28/s320/P1030313-sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courses at UUD (University of Uncle Doug) continue apace. Here Caleigh is stitching on our new wheel cover. We initially thought of this as a luxury item but with our recent passage 'sans Autohelm' we have used and appreciated it immensely.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-veR-9VbZFgg/VfyS0dgnmjI/AAAAAAAAUbA/s1039LmYxJo/s1600/P1030339-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-veR-9VbZFgg/VfyS0dgnmjI/AAAAAAAAUbA/s1039LmYxJo/s320/P1030339-sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sun rises behind us as we approach Noumea. What the camera cannot catch (or at least the photographers could not catch) are the array of flashing strobes off our bow which guide into town with exquisite assurance. You probably "have to be there" to appreciate what a friend a flashing white light really can be!</td></tr>
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Snug as bugs in Port Moselle, New Caledonia we are enjoying the warm fresh delights of our new home. Yesterday evening we had warm fresh baguettes with some lovely french cheese and our last bottle of wine from Fiji. Today we will hunt out some of the promised French wine which was on the shelf yesterday but behind the red & white tape saying FERME.<br />
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We had a great crossing from Port Vila (or at least that was my opinion). There is great power in being the recorder of history. Our sail included wind that was close on the bow -- perhaps 50 deg. AWA. The boat performed perfectly -- though for the first time the Autohelm did not.<br />
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The initial setback of no self-steering was daunting. We could stop at the Loyalty Islands but even then they were 120 miles away for an anchorage.<br />
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On Sophrosyne, we were not overwhelmed with capable human helmsmen, and some of the best potential candidates were, at the moment, laying on the cabin settee with a bucket close at hand.<br />
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In the end though we sailed far enough from Efate for the confused seas to settle, and found the correct sail combination (triple reef main and about 1/2 of our small jib) to power the boat through the water at +/- 7 knots in perfect balance with 2 finger steering -- lovely -- and the stars that come out on a clear night with a new moon! All is well.<br />
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New Caledonia appears to be a treasure trove of discoveries. Our first impression though comes before we even touched land. The approach to Noumea includes a long stretch of islands, reefs and close channel passages. Looking at the chart in Port Vila, it seems daunting and no way to make the full passage in daylight. Nervous tummy.<br />
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As Robert de Niro famously says in the movie Ronin "the map never equals the territory."<br />
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In New Caledonia this turns out to be a lovely positive surprise. After so much time sailing in Fiji where navigational aids to serious hazards laying 6 inches below the surface may (or may not) be in the form of a 'stick' we were delighted to find the range of white, red, green flashers all working and exactly where the chart said they would be. Together with the iPad it was a piece of pie to move through these waters and a treat to arrive in Noumea with the rising sun behind us! Perfect.<br />
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We will spend a couple of days in Noumea enjoying the European lifestyle and sorting out that itinerant autohelm. After that we will make a make our way to some of the outer islands before we come back in to Port Moselle to prepare for the next leg of our journey to Australia.<br />
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It's all good!Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-85080124685245286872015-08-31T18:26:00.002-07:002015-08-31T18:26:25.397-07:00Sights and Sounds of Vanuatu<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bdygc39i1XY/VeT7nvY_JiI/AAAAAAAAUVA/4FMTr0smCs8/s1600/P1030269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bdygc39i1XY/VeT7nvY_JiI/AAAAAAAAUVA/4FMTr0smCs8/s320/P1030269.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first sight of Vanuatu. Efate in the early morning. A welcome sight after a coupla days sailing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--4_7lfkIXUg/VeT7q1SoDrI/AAAAAAAAUVI/4p1GE0vlrog/s1600/P1030261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--4_7lfkIXUg/VeT7q1SoDrI/AAAAAAAAUVI/4p1GE0vlrog/s320/P1030261.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I look at this picture and I think, if I am Caleigh, "my god, my life is in these people's hands..."</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FM5t4r-CsB8/VeT7yG7JB3I/AAAAAAAAUVQ/f3mhlVMEhTE/s1600/P1030277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FM5t4r-CsB8/VeT7yG7JB3I/AAAAAAAAUVQ/f3mhlVMEhTE/s320/P1030277.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CG "in the Rafters" Someone let the loose end of the lazy jacks fly and Caleigh had to run up and grab it.* We say 'someone' when it is Doug who makes the mistakes. We try to record all others with a greater degree of accuracy.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5WWbNY0OhwM/VeT7yudarhI/AAAAAAAAUVY/4hbXZh2vdxo/s1600/P1030286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5WWbNY0OhwM/VeT7yudarhI/AAAAAAAAUVY/4hbXZh2vdxo/s320/P1030286.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, I am in the zone.<br />If only they had just let me organize things from the beginning. Sailing -- really, it's a piece of piss!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5JARnfG_nOI/VeT734WBIWI/AAAAAAAAUVg/D89_R349YDc/s1600/P1030291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5JARnfG_nOI/VeT734WBIWI/AAAAAAAAUVg/D89_R349YDc/s320/P1030291.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Queen Maureen is escorted ashore by her expert guides Eti, and Max. All had a wonderful day together exploring the the beaches of Ambrym and the worlds of it's exotic visitors. A smile is the great shared currency!</td></tr>
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<br />Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-28069249018850253232015-08-17T18:31:00.000-07:002015-08-17T20:50:29.477-07:00CG -- And off!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pkGLzmFJd9E/VdKJdsppQ9I/AAAAAAAAUQw/EmOx-b3IO3Q/s1600/P1030256-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pkGLzmFJd9E/VdKJdsppQ9I/AAAAAAAAUQw/EmOx-b3IO3Q/s320/P1030256-sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a fun day aboard Sophrosyne! We are joined by our newest crew member. Caleigh will travel with us for the next couple of months as we make our way from Fiji, to Vanuatu, to New Caledonia, and finally on to Australia.</td></tr>
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This morning was a very fun morning for us. We were up early to meet the plane!<br />
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We hear it fly over every morning but usually we just roll over and sleep for another hour. Today though we were excited to get to the airport to meet our newest crew member and second favorite niece : ). Caleigh Grace will sail and explore with us over the next several months as part of her 'walkabout.' We feel privileged to spend the time with her!<br />
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This morning after breakfast the three of us put both jibs onto the roller furlers and tucked away as much as possible of Caleigh's belongings. To be fair -- and in true Sophrosyne tradition -- her bag was half full of our stuff so packing away wasn't too tough.<br />
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We are off for a swim now and then we will let Caleigh rest before we head to the Boatshed for 2 for 1 pizza night. Tomorrow we are up early again to head into Lautoka and stock up at the market. If that all goes well, we will come back and untie for the afternoon to head out for a wee boatride so that we can run the engine and watermaker and send Caleigh over the side to scrub the bottom before we head out to sea on Thursday.<br />
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For those interested to watch our progress you can visit:<br />
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http://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/Sophrosyne<br />
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to see our position as we move toward Vanuatu starting on Thursday (Wednesday in Canada).<br />
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Next post will come from CG!<br />
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Stand by for her wisdom, humor and grace!Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-49057889507932017092015-07-03T15:10:00.003-07:002015-07-03T15:10:34.322-07:00Job 5<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8K8ZZXG95ZI/VZcF4wqmQHI/AAAAAAAATx0/l5qIUSDHtWs/s1600/P1030125-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8K8ZZXG95ZI/VZcF4wqmQHI/AAAAAAAATx0/l5qIUSDHtWs/s320/P1030125-sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the tropics it's "Shade or Die"<br />We love our new dodger, bimini and boombag.</td></tr>
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So way back last summer when we returned to BC we had a list of 5 big projects that we wanted to work through to have the boat ready to go. There were of course 3 or 4 thousand smaller projects that we have also worked through over the course of the last 12 months. All in all, we are thinking that we are in pretty good shape (touch wood). We often marvel at how patient some of our visitors have been over the past year putting up with various deficiencies and gaps in our understanding of boat systems. Everyone is invited back to see the progress we have made. Patrick, we have come a long way since you and Bev were here a year ago. Gord and Jane, we now have 'sailing under a bimini' figured out so that we can have good access to view the sails without dying in the tropical sun. Ian and Caroline, we now have the watermaker working so that the ritual of cleaning dishes off the stern of the boat is a thing of the past. Brent -- we love our new outboard cowling. That Merc just works now and we no longer live in fear of a moderate sized boat wake. Chris and Anna, you would love that the last of cardboard boxes are gone and there is space to put things away. It's all good!<br />
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This past week we have finally gotten to 'Job 5' which is a new furler for our 100% jib. The previous owner of Sophrosyne had removed this inner headstay in favour of a headstay rigged to mid bow which was never really anything more than a handhold getting on and off the boat. We have found that in the tropics -- where the wind blows (just ask any of those people mentioned above) -- we have sailed too much with our 130% genoa and a triple reefed main. In this configuration the boat is unbalanced and the autohelm works extra hard to keep us on track. The boat was designed with a self-tacking 100% jib and we are moving back to that setup hoping that it will allow us to sail with a bit more main showing and a better helm balance.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aR7pHeHSDpY/VZcFwObCcyI/AAAAAAAATxw/SY3QRHLuML4/s1600/P1030247-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aR7pHeHSDpY/VZcFwObCcyI/AAAAAAAATxw/SY3QRHLuML4/s320/P1030247-sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">While we are at it. We have new saloon cushions which make it seem like home. (those are Christopher's clothes on the floor in the forward stateroom just to give it that 'lived in' feeling.</td></tr>
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So, in review the Big 5 are:<br />
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1.) New dodger/bimini/boom bag (and saloon cushions -- you know, while we are at it) DONE. The old dodger had clears that were so brittle and cracked that even duct tape couldn't keep them alive.<br />
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2.) New radar/sonar DONE.<br />
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3.) New Max-prop. DONE.<br />
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4.) New Lithium Ion battery and modified solar charging DONE. I'm Lovin It. It has been over a month now with no shore charge and we have been squandering energy trying to find the end of our capacity -- watermaker, inverted shop-vac, power tools.<br />
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Energy from the sun is just -- magic. It seems silly but I really can't quite get over it.<br />
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5.) Back to that furler. We are slow on this one because the furler foil and jibtrack were lost in transit and spent most of a season in New Zealand. Eventually they were delivered (all in good shape) and we are able to get on with that project. We did get some help from Westside Rigging as we needed to have a longer headstay to reach back to the bow again. Happy to report that the new headstay and foil are in place with just the jibtrack left to install. Happy days.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L6JqeDNvDLA/VZcF5Et-YeI/AAAAAAAATyA/ZzxTdRe9lDc/s1600/P1030252-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L6JqeDNvDLA/VZcF5Et-YeI/AAAAAAAATyA/ZzxTdRe9lDc/s320/P1030252-sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finishing touches on the new headstay and foil. Thanks to the boys at Westside Rigging for their help through this process.</td></tr>
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So, with all this done now we have been making our plans to depart Fiji. We have been saying goodbye to some of our favorite spots as we will leave from Vuda to head west in a couple of weeks. We have 1 small detour (Saltspring Island, BC) for a family wedding but once we return we will be off into the ocean.<br />
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That's all for now folks -- more to come in the coming days.<br />
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Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-31138801385945760582015-06-20T18:11:00.000-07:002015-06-20T18:11:16.214-07:00PS.I was thinking that my note yesterday afternoon was a bit lame and that I should really try a bit more to give a sense of our life here? I was trying to see what it was like to post from the iPad which is our normal link to the Internet. It is not quite so easy to use and I am back sat down in front of the laptop now. Our experience is that we really don't use the laptop too much anymore as most of our day to day activity is more easily handled on the iPad. Navigation, banking, record keeping, research, news, and keeping in touch -- all iPad...<br />
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We are enjoying a Sunday afternoon here puttering on the boat and staying ahead of boat tasks, etc. That sound you hear is the watermaker which has been running for a couple of hours now replenishing our tanks. Once the new battery has been installed we have been able to make lots of water. The watermaker uses about 20 amps and we can generate about 15 amps from our solar panels and anywhere from 5 to 15 amps from the windvane. So -- we have water!<br />
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And groceries! We are into our second week of cruising with 4 aboard so we are down to the last of the fruit and vegetables. (Still lots of wine, beer, and rum so no real worries). As fortune would have it we were visited by the grocery truck yesterday afternoon and were able to restock. We even had lettuce for supper last night. I will let the photos tell the story of the grocery delivery and say only -- we feel very lucky indeed!<br />
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Grocery truck arrives</div>
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Getting tied up so that we can have a look at what is on offer</div>
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Lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, papaya, limes. Everything one needs for a splendid dinner at anchor.</div>
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A nice smile from the checkout clerk</div>
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Thanks for the wonderful delivery. Can't help noticing the ballcap -- J24 Australian Championships -- Vinaka</div>
Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-18717263281353840302015-06-19T21:28:00.000-07:002015-06-19T21:28:06.921-07:00Ok, ok, ok...So folks have mentioned to me that it has been awhile since we posted onto this blog page. And, since I see that more than a year has passed since the last post here I guess they are right. It's not like I can say that we have been too busy -- but we really have been. Just ask any of our guests over the last two or three months! Right now for example I have the considerable time pressure of getting in to the Blue Lagoon Yacht Club's Happy Hour!<br />
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Wait you say, Blue Lagoon Yacht Club?<br />
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Yes, we have watched facilities here get pieced together over the last three or four visits such that when we arrived here with Chris and Anna we were actually the very first yachties to have a shower! I will share more about that part in my upcoming coffee table book -- Showers of the Pacific<br />
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Not for the first time this year we have found Blue Lagoon a wonderful way to sit out 30-35 knot winds. Although we still get the wind, the surrounding reefs do a grand job of reducing the swell. We had been by ourselves for a few days and feeling a bit lonely but after breakfast we had three new boats all arrive within an hour. As the longstanding resident yachties we felt it was our job to dinghy around and let everyone know about happy hour at 5:00!<br />
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It's almost that time now so I will sign off -- but check back frequently cuz you know how good we are at keeping up to date!<br />
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It's all good!<br />
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Lo's granddaughter, at Lo's Teahouse where we go to get tea and cake.</div>
Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-13475377353838707702014-07-10T19:24:00.000-07:002014-07-10T19:24:07.453-07:00Off Across the Ocean<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahili heading off to Vanuatu! Bon voyage!</td></tr>
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As we head back into Vuda Point Marina this morning to look into having some 'boat projects' attended to before we put everything away at the end of the month we passed close by good friends Mike and Jennifer Gough who were just leaving for Vanuatu!<br />
Don't they look good with all sails flying in a gentle 15 knots of breeze. In our radio goodbyes Mike lamented that they did not have 25 knots or more. (gotta love them Aussie's)!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z8pMPLjCzJs/U79Jg0aoKQI/AAAAAAAAN4k/uOMCz-K1BN4/s1600/P1030121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z8pMPLjCzJs/U79Jg0aoKQI/AAAAAAAAN4k/uOMCz-K1BN4/s1600/P1030121.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike and Jennifer waving goodbye to Fiji!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Mike and Jennifer have been a bad influence on us during our time in Fiji as our paths have crossed in a variety of places around the country. Like many other more experienced sailors that have coached us to continue our adventure and explore the wonderful sailing in Indonesia, Malaysia, and beyond. "Pirates" -- "na Doug no worries about Pirates" (gotta love them Aussie's)<br />
<br />
Good luck and bon voyage! Hope to see you down the track (or on Vancouver Island).<br />
<br />
Thanks!Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-26645373968768728042014-06-24T22:36:00.000-07:002014-06-25T02:52:15.624-07:00Lau and Back<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QI52sBgMKu4/U6pULCoV6hI/AAAAAAAANmo/Q5ylsLRxG68/s1600/IMG_0682-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QI52sBgMKu4/U6pULCoV6hI/AAAAAAAANmo/Q5ylsLRxG68/s1600/IMG_0682-sm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BC residents will recognize the Queen of Prince Rupert, now<br />
called the Lomaviti Princess which ferries back and forth between<br />
Suva and Savusavu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
You know we are back from visiting the Lau Islands because I am able to post a couple of photos of our visit. While it is not true to say that there is NO Internet in the Exploring Isles, it is a bit of a trick to find it and when you do, the first mission is to get a weather report. Sorry for the gap...<br />
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We are back now anchored in Suva Harbour.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hHPiCPO7BXA/U6pUTjo7jpI/AAAAAAAANnw/kD1iQ4Q5SyM/s1600/P1030108-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hHPiCPO7BXA/U6pUTjo7jpI/AAAAAAAANnw/kD1iQ4Q5SyM/s1600/P1030108-sm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored in Bavatu Harbour in the Exploring Isles</td></tr>
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Suva Harbour is different from the Lau group and we find ourselves nestled neatly between a raft of what are known locally as 'the rat boats -- don't get too close or they will swim onto your boat' and a rusted sunken steel hulk that will, I am sure, be reported as an 'artificial reef.' Just the same, we are happy to be here and in spite of our proximity to shopping and entertainment we have enjoyed our day just relaxing on the boat. Really, just a few small boat chores and not too much more.<br />
<br />
We have been able to replenish our water from the Royal Suva Yacht Club and have been catching up on laundry and cleaning.<br />
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<h3>
Traveling to Lau</h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-484vMXXE2so/U6pUMWU7qKI/AAAAAAAANm4/Kz1JNEcUJwo/s1600/IMG_2400-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-484vMXXE2so/U6pUMWU7qKI/AAAAAAAANm4/Kz1JNEcUJwo/s1600/IMG_2400-sm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The black dotted line is our track into the harbour. The red circle<br />
is our location at anchor. Normally we try to avoid anchoring on<br />
land...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Over the past couple of weeks we have been working our way eastward from Savusavu toward the Lau Islands which are the easternmost part of Fiji. The Lau Islands are the least visited part of Fiji and up until recently it has been difficult to obtain a cruising permit that would even allow one to travel there. Remember that the regular trade winds blow from the east so getting to the Lau Islands means sailing upwind from the more populated parts of Fiji. Our route allowed us to stop in several little harbours along the way. For the last step to windward over the Koro Sea we left our anchor at 03:00 so that we could approach the fringing coral reefs of Vanua belavu at midday when the sun gives the best light to pick our way over the coral reefs.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VGiAxIZxsQo/U6pUNC7inKI/AAAAAAAANnA/3uc-i2khc8Y/s1600/IMG_2406-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VGiAxIZxsQo/U6pUNC7inKI/AAAAAAAANnA/3uc-i2khc8Y/s1600/IMG_2406-sm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wish you were here!</td></tr>
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We felt reasonably well prepared for this bit of navigation as we have had many similar encounters throughout our time in Fiji. We have waypoints from previous travelers that guide us in our route planning. This trip was a little different though because the waypoints DID NOT match up with the electronic charts we are using. I know you are thinking 'what does a few metres really matter?'<br />
<br />
Well, first of all, we are a bit skeptical of the charting software because since this trip takes us over the 180th degree of longitude we literally have to scroll across the planet to find the other half of our route.<br />
<br />
Secondly, the charts are out by about 200 metres in this area leaving the feeling of wearing those 'drunk simulation glasses' they give high school students to show them what DUI driving feels like. Thirdly, our gap in the fringing reef is really only about 30 metres wide in total and you can see waves breaking over coral heads on both sides so a miss can really spoil your day. And lastly, as we are approaching the most critical part of the passage our friends and very experienced sailors aboard a 52' ketch radioed to tell us that they had hit hard just a few hours earlier -- now you have my attention!<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-THtplsnMeeA/U6pURzIvYFI/AAAAAAAANng/Y5Uqk_aEXHw/s1600/P1030090-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-THtplsnMeeA/U6pURzIvYFI/AAAAAAAANng/Y5Uqk_aEXHw/s1600/P1030090-sm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crowded beaches of the Lau Islands.</td></tr>
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Gripping the helm tightly (very tightly actually) we managed an undramatic entrance and after making our offer of Sevusevu (kava) to the chief in the local village moved on to some of the most beautiful and dramatic anchorages one can imagine.<br />
<br />
One of the fun things about being in such a remote place is that there is an immediate kinship among the few boats that are around you. As a result we enjoyed a number of delightful 'sundowners' and were the recipients of several gifts of baking that I will always be grateful for. Somehow, banana bread at the edge of the world takes on a special importance. All we had to offer was Gin and Tonic. Though to be honest I do not recall anyone complaining about the G&T's either?<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--lB1_7x5rgc/U6pUJWMCzwI/AAAAAAAANmk/cJsGLxOnVQQ/s1600/IMG_0668-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--lB1_7x5rgc/U6pUJWMCzwI/AAAAAAAANmk/cJsGLxOnVQQ/s1600/IMG_0668-sm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This part of Vanua balavu is a Copra plantation and several<br />
families manage the plantation. Here they are preparing a<br />
feast of roast pork and cassava for their yachty guests.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of our evening adventures was to join in on a Lomaloma 'pig roast' arranged by one of the other yachties. The crews of 4 boats were able to join with a number of local families to eat roast pork and cassava and an evening of drinking kava.<br />
<br />
Eventually we had to acknowledge that our dwindling water supply and our failing batteries were to draw us back toward mainland Fiji.<br />
<br />
Heading east now with the wind on our aft quarter we made short work of the distance back to Suva. Even dragging our 3 blade fixed prop through the ocean we sailed at 8 and 9 knots with considerable ease using only a triple reefed main and a partially furled headsail. (Mrs. Backhouse says she prefers it that way).<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DEAqpWI4fwk/U6pUJ54BHLI/AAAAAAAANms/vKTZGSSaonU/s1600/IMG_0679-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DEAqpWI4fwk/U6pUJ54BHLI/AAAAAAAANms/vKTZGSSaonU/s1600/IMG_0679-sm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading east again the sun sets over our shoulder. This<br />
night we traveled the 170 miles back to Suva.<br />
The boat moves...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While we have enjoyed the showers and yacht club beer we have to admit that the tone on the boat has changed a bit as we are realizing that we are drawing toward the finish of this fabulous few months of learning about the boat and exploring this wonderful land. It is not too long now before we will have to consider the prospect of wearing socks again.<br />
<br />
But of course this reality is tempered by an equal dose of scheming for what lies ahead.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mipxpvSoMZs/U6pUP824aGI/AAAAAAAANnQ/5UkoNq0ABEw/s1600/P1030068-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mipxpvSoMZs/U6pUP824aGI/AAAAAAAANnQ/5UkoNq0ABEw/s1600/P1030068-sm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ocean debris -- Lau style</td></tr>
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Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-74827861487218529982014-06-02T02:19:00.003-07:002014-06-02T02:19:52.692-07:00Kakoda Salad and other Wins in Savusavu<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NHmlCPrFTIk/U4xAxXUOdiI/AAAAAAAANgY/t6FxUMkstxY/s1600/photo+(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NHmlCPrFTIk/U4xAxXUOdiI/AAAAAAAANgY/t6FxUMkstxY/s1600/photo+(1).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch at the Surf & Turf. Kakoda Salad and<br />home made ice cream for dessert.</td></tr>
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We have had a good day in Savusavu today. As previously reported, Maureen had thrown our perfectly good stovetop grill into the ocean about a week ago and we have had a bit of a time managing to hold the pot while the water boiled.<br />
<br />
A replacement is no big deal -- in Vancouver -- bit a little trickier in Fiji.<br />
<br />
But, we went to the applicance store and asked if they had something that might suit. The fellow brought us out an old grill that had been in his storage room and said we could just take it.<br />
<br />
Well, a little head scratching and a little hacksawing and we are back in business. We have two of the three elements back in working order and, well, lets face it who ever uses that third element anyway.<br />
<br />
Next, we were able to procure a new aluminium LPG tank which is again no mean feat... I had gone to fill the tank a couple of weeks ago and the fellow said the valve needed to be replaced. No problem, I prefer to have a non-leaking valve anyway so just go ahead. Well you see, we ruined the threads when we took the valve out. No worries, we'll just buy a new tank. Sorry we don't have any aluminium tanks. No problem, we'll grab one in Suva (the capital of Fiji). Sorry none there either. We do have a couple in Savusavu. On well then, no worries.<br />
<br />
On top of that we lucked into the local cruiser's net and ended up splitting the cab 5 ways. It's all good!<br />
<br />
And we were back in time for lunch. Again, based on tips from the cruiser's net we dropped into the Surf & Turf and had a fabulous lunch with change left over for a double scoop of homemade ice cream.<br />
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All in all, a pretty good day. Looking forward to seeing what tomorrow brings.Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-37943758259505122722014-05-30T13:18:00.000-07:002014-05-30T13:18:16.631-07:00Across the Koro Sea<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We arrived back in Savusavu yesterday after an enjoyable afternoon sailing up from Makogi Island.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5gho3C0Y6fU/U4jhqIcRJHI/AAAAAAAANcI/0jNKN4PaNlo/s1600/P1030058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5gho3C0Y6fU/U4jhqIcRJHI/AAAAAAAANcI/0jNKN4PaNlo/s1600/P1030058.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scudding along at 7 or 8 knots with a double reefed main and<span style="text-align: left;"> genoa.</span></td></tr>
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Our Plan in the morning had been to stop at Koro Island but once we were out and sailing we realized that the usual southeast winds were more from the east the trip to Koro Island looked to have some closehauled sailing. Closehauled is something we have so far avoided on our journey and so we decided to maintain the 'clean sheet' yesterday as well.</div>
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The Koro Sea is about the middle of Fiji Islands (if there is such a thing). It is different from much of our other cruising because the water is 2000 feet deep. This makes it less important watching the depth instruments.</div>
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We had a lovely time at Makogi Island. After we arrived there we went ashore to present our Sevusevu. Makogi is mariculture centre operated by the Fiji department of Fisheries. The island's caretaker toured us through their facilities showing us the giant clam's that they grow to seed the reefs of Fiji. The giant clams are actually 'giant' and it is pretty cool to see how they are grown and cultured.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tPPfIDUBkbE/U4jhqcH0-LI/AAAAAAAANcM/9jEFCedHGdU/s1600/P1030061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tPPfIDUBkbE/U4jhqcH0-LI/AAAAAAAANcM/9jEFCedHGdU/s1600/P1030061.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a beautiful day in the Pacific.</td></tr>
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But the most interesting aspect of Makogi is the leporsorium which operated from 1911 to 1962. It is a strange and interesting thing to walk through this facility which was essentially a town complete with cinema and jail in the middle of the pacific. We had a great conversion with the caretaker about the residual spirits of this 100 year old medical facility. </div>
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<br />Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-14208572743649747742014-05-28T13:19:00.000-07:002014-05-28T13:19:03.196-07:00Sights of Ovalau<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wKKqJNzQVOA/U4ZAgxhJEMI/AAAAAAAANbk/EV12vRn_Ux8/s1600/P1030043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wKKqJNzQVOA/U4ZAgxhJEMI/AAAAAAAANbk/EV12vRn_Ux8/s1600/P1030043.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Levuka was the Capital of Fiji from 1874 to 1882. Not too much<br />has happened here still then.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This morning we awake in front of Levuka. This is a community on Ovalau island which boasts that it was once the Capital of Fiji. A search of the finer details shows that while this is true it was only for an 8 year period between 1874 and 1882. Levuka is now a Unesco World Heritage site recognizing its industrial heritage and unique South Pacific Architecture.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MGKFBr_IBlo/U4ZAe9bpSRI/AAAAAAAANbc/YDaIyYknC1E/s1600/P1030040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MGKFBr_IBlo/U4ZAe9bpSRI/AAAAAAAANbc/YDaIyYknC1E/s1600/P1030040.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sign says 'Welcome to Lekuva -- 1874"<br />It really is like entering Levuka in 1874.</td></tr>
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I think our impressions of Levuka may be coloured as we will recall our stay here as an 'anchor testing site.' The boisterous trade winds which are a feature this time of year have been in force for the last week or two and Levuka in not an ideal anchorage in these circumstances. We have had not a stitch of problem but we have gone to sleep each night with the depth alarm on the instruments carefully set, the anchor alarm on the computer set to a fine radius and the anchor alarm on iNavx on the iPad running as well. No drama.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IxX-m4LaUfc/U4ZAd4FfpqI/AAAAAAAANbU/wwMy6fYRn5o/s1600/P1030039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IxX-m4LaUfc/U4ZAd4FfpqI/AAAAAAAANbU/wwMy6fYRn5o/s1600/P1030039.jpg" height="185" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Visiting on the walk to work at the the Tuna processing plant.<br />Shift starts at 15:00 and and at 00:30. </td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mtt2qyvjk4A/U4ZAUPrVJnI/AAAAAAAANa0/3m_M33PPbJM/s1600/P1030014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mtt2qyvjk4A/U4ZAUPrVJnI/AAAAAAAANa0/3m_M33PPbJM/s1600/P1030014.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keepin up with the paperwork.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AC2TgsRyAyQ/U4ZAZwbl_zI/AAAAAAAANbE/h5AgUzgKYFU/s1600/P1030036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AC2TgsRyAyQ/U4ZAZwbl_zI/AAAAAAAANbE/h5AgUzgKYFU/s1600/P1030036.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My next home...</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mtt2qyvjk4A/U4ZAUPrVJnI/AAAAAAAANa0/3m_M33PPbJM/s1600/P1030014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DbKFU2jIH10/U4ZAUgWwT3I/AAAAAAAANa4/Yz71sugwC1U/s1600/P1030022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DbKFU2jIH10/U4ZAUgWwT3I/AAAAAAAANa4/Yz71sugwC1U/s1600/P1030022.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>Today we plan to move on from here to visit Makoga Island on our way to Savusavu. There has been much discussion aboard Sophrosyne these past few days planning our itinerary for the next 6 weeks or so. We are planning to visit some of the more remote Fijian Islands including the much touted Lau Group.<br />
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<!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-Mtt2qyvjk4A%2FU4ZAUPrVJnI%2FAAAAAAAANa0%2F3m_M33PPbJM%2Fs1600%2FP1030014.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mtt2qyvjk4A/U4ZAUPrVJnI/AAAAAAAANa0/3m_M33PPbJM/s1600/P1030014.jpg" -->Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-4526868394470313472014-05-19T13:54:00.005-07:002014-05-19T13:54:59.894-07:00Changing SeasonsWell, we are almost ready to head off again on the next leg of our wee journey. We have been at Vuda Point for almost a week now getting a few things sorted. Vuda Point is a bit like our 'home away from home' now -- the spot we come back to when visitors come and go. We are getting to like it here because we know most of the staff and cruisers and everyone always has time for a smile.<br />
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We can start to see how the season's are changing as new boats are arriving and others are finishing their offseason retrofits and getting into the water. The season's are changing too. Maureen woke up this morning and reached for her 'Icebreaker' to cut the chill of the cold Fijian morning air. (Don't worry, it's not that cold). Maureen's weather app says it was 23 degrees (feels like 30). But even I have to admit that is down quite a bit from February where Maureen was reporting (with a smile) it's 29 degrees (feels like 40). Don't get me started on the 'feels like' category. The only thing I know is that our next boat should have an air-conditioned lazarette which is where I have spent must of the last week.<br />
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Sophrosyne has a 'walk in lazarette' where we store most of our serious cruising gear, like 5 of the 7 anchors not currently is use. This week all of that was on the deck as we worked through most of an accumulated list of repairs/updates.<br />
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We now have a fully functioning AIS transponder with a built-in multiplexer so that boats around us are overlain onto our charts. Significantly with the new setup we can broadcast our position so that they can see us too -- AIS stands for Automatic Identification System. This setup also includes a new DGPS so that we no longer rely on the the iPad for navigation. At the same time we added an autopilot control instrument, re-installed the wind generator and re-wired the SSB antenna tuner -- all set to go!<br />
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We have been waiting the last day or two for a VHF splitter cable and once that's in we can head out. Maureen has taken the bus into town this morning in the hope that our cable has arrived which is why I have a few minutes to sit at the computer and write.<br />
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Time with Patty and Bev</h3>
Some might be wondering aloud if they have missed a blog post or two because we haven't shared much about our grand visit with Patrick and Bev? I had a very nice surprise this morning when I looked at the photo cache that Bev left for us and I think that the best way to share that chapter is through her photos. Thanks Bev!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A1alh7Hj0o0/U3pkuxZ2mHI/AAAAAAAANYk/iv48TxDpZW4/s1600/IMG_5276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A1alh7Hj0o0/U3pkuxZ2mHI/AAAAAAAANYk/iv48TxDpZW4/s1600/IMG_5276.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patrick and Bev sailing back down from Navandra Island. We<br />have had a lovely 2 weeks visiting and enjoying their company.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day One -- Patrick is looking online for a 'funtivity' to fill the 11:00 - 12:00<br />slot that remains vacant. Watching these guys plan we realized just<br />how much we have adapted to 'Fiji-time'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDQ9jEPqQOk/U3pnglOoQ9I/AAAAAAAANZ0/-qCpsgKgEqs/s1600/IMG_5510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDQ9jEPqQOk/U3pnglOoQ9I/AAAAAAAANZ0/-qCpsgKgEqs/s1600/IMG_5510.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day Three -- now fully certified scuba divers the question is 'what next?'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-98BHKNKimjI/U3pnfHpGM8I/AAAAAAAANZc/ePG8615we8s/s1600/IMG_5440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-98BHKNKimjI/U3pnfHpGM8I/AAAAAAAANZc/ePG8615we8s/s1600/IMG_5440.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Let's think about that for a minute...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FUFrhBLAHnQ/U3pnhBtbkqI/AAAAAAAANZs/J4-BLEFiKBk/s1600/IMG_5542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FUFrhBLAHnQ/U3pnhBtbkqI/AAAAAAAANZs/J4-BLEFiKBk/s1600/IMG_5542.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset in the Pacific</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xkM1pif5D_s/U3pnhtM5GHI/AAAAAAAANaA/qGuEWMCSV3k/s1600/IMG_5592.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xkM1pif5D_s/U3pnhtM5GHI/AAAAAAAANaA/qGuEWMCSV3k/s1600/IMG_5592.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice visits and stories to tell</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hX218a_AaRU/U3pnbmb_lYI/AAAAAAAANY8/EDCQ4VFTuvg/s1600/IMG_5304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hX218a_AaRU/U3pnbmb_lYI/AAAAAAAANY8/EDCQ4VFTuvg/s1600/IMG_5304.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now we are on pace</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8lUd-YPbYPU/U3pndBJDpFI/AAAAAAAANZQ/RhctH8Nzksg/s1600/IMG_5309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8lUd-YPbYPU/U3pndBJDpFI/AAAAAAAANZQ/RhctH8Nzksg/s1600/IMG_5309.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanks for the great visit guys!<br />It was fun.</td></tr>
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<br />Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-5586207131879719342014-05-01T17:54:00.000-07:002014-05-01T17:54:19.356-07:00Today's Lesson -- Outboards Don't FloatIt could happen to anyone... Well we have entered that group of folks who have dropped their outboards into the salt chuck.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XVQjCnbdzWI/U2Lq11BCw8I/AAAAAAAANX0/RDN8dcKI4Vw/s1600/P1020577-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XVQjCnbdzWI/U2Lq11BCw8I/AAAAAAAANX0/RDN8dcKI4Vw/s1600/P1020577-sm.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They tell me they were able to use some of the diesel from our<br />lame fuel tank to flush out the sunken outboard. As Chuggy says,<br />"everything works out"</td></tr>
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And Patty tells me it ran for a good 20 seconds after it hit the water.<br />
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Today's departure was delayed somewhat by a wee mishap as the sun was going down last evening. Pat and Bev were returning from their sunset cruise when our outboard mysteriously popped off the back of the dinghy.<br />
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With Maureen reading from Wikipedia we were able to get the outboard back onto the mothership and gave it a good freshwater wash and some WD40 into the cylinders. Since that is about the limit of our mechanical ability, and with the distinct possibility of doing more damage than good, and since it was supposed to be happy hour at the Boatshed, we e-mailed our good and reliable friends at Baobab who were down here at 8:00 to take the outboard up to their shop and complete a service (glad now that I had not done the servicing proactively...).<br />
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I am happy to report that the engine is running again now and all that is let to do is track down another cowling for a Merc 9.9.<br />
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We a re now just waiting for our 'untie' from the central cyclone mooring and we will be on our way to Musket Cove. The weather is fine and we are all looking forward to a couple of fun days in the Mamanca Islands.Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-66982512492153494612014-04-29T23:21:00.001-07:002014-04-29T23:21:49.917-07:00The Glamorous Sailor's Life<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KUpQza3EuV0/U2CTi-sTEMI/AAAAAAAANXc/IeQpC1B-pjQ/s1600/P1020570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KUpQza3EuV0/U2CTi-sTEMI/AAAAAAAANXc/IeQpC1B-pjQ/s1600/P1020570.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cleaning up under the spot where our forward<br />fuel tank used to be. The aluminium tank had developed<br />pinhole leaks and will need to be replaced... fun.</td></tr>
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Twelve hours after our friends Gord and Jane departed, and 12 hours before Patrick and Bev arrive we are hard at work cleaning up underneath the spot where one of our fuel tanks used to be!<br />
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We have been having problems over the past week or two with this tank getting water into the Racor fuel filter and as we were having the engine serviced today we thought "while we are at it..." It will be great to have this fixed so that we can be confident that the fuel will be clean and without contaminants going forward.<br />
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This photo is after we got it about 1/2 clean. Doug scraped out the worst of it and then Maureen climbed in and finished it off. Actually it is clean enough now that we are thinking we will have our dinner down there.<br />
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Tomorrow brings our Patty and his girlfriend Bev for a visit. We are very excited to have them join us and we are looking forward to showing them the spots we have discovered over the past few months. Today was a very rainy day here so we are hoping that the sun pokes out tomorrow! Chris on the other hand is exactly 12 time zones away right now teaching in Ghana. We hope that he is doing well and we will raise a glass of Fiji Bitter in his honour and wish him the very best in his adventure.<br />
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Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8272834477628051075.post-38125559629987134892014-04-24T14:28:00.001-07:002014-04-24T14:28:39.921-07:00Vinaka vaka levuVinaka vaka levu means "Thank you, very much!" The extra emphasis of 'vaka levu' are our newest Fijian words. Sereana wrote them out for us yesterday morning in the Plantation Island Medical Centre. We were quite impressed with Sereana and the wonderful medical service she provided, but more for the warmth, kindness and good cheer that she brings to her work -- this after 48 years of nursing!<br />
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Maureen and I left our guests on the boat yesterday and took the dinghy ashore to see what we could learn about an infection that had been pestering my elbow for the last 2 or 3 days. When we arrived Sereana was sitting in her chair at the medical centre and assessed my situation quickly. "Doug" she said, "I am going to have to punish you -- you should have started antibiotics right away and now I am going to have to give you a shot in the bum!" She managed our query with gentle efficiency carefully recording the details of our conversation in a ledger and providing both a shot, and a follow-up prescription. Through it all she joked and shared local stories and educated us on how to look after ourselves on the boat. We are thankful!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Millie checks out the visitors at Lo's Tea House from atop her<br />perch of Fiji Gold. Vinaka Millie!</td></tr>
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But on to the real action of the day -- which is not much at all! We are coming to the end of a month of cruising with Gord and Jane Shoquist and have found ourselves back at one of our favorite spots -- Musket Cove Marina. Since arriving back in Fiji we have been touring the Yasawa Island group. In the middle of the Yasawa's is an area called 'Blue Lagoon' which apparently has some connection with a movie of the same name. We certainly enjoyed the beaches and snorkeling and spent two or three days visiting the 4 or 5 islands that protect the lagoon.<br />
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Perhaps our favorite trip was a walk across Nanuya Lailai Island to visit Lo's Tea House. The walk takes us over the top of the island and down through a wee village where we happened upon a family just sitting down for lunch on their veranda. A little shy to be walking through their 'living room' we were greeted with a broad "Bula bula" and the characteristic warm smiles of Fiji. They urged us on to the shoreline and into Lo's. As we walked down one of the same gals quickly ran ahead and opened up the teahouse as we were certain to be their only visitors this day. It was fun.<br />
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Since our stop at Blue Lagoon we have been working our way toward Vuda Marina to complete our travel loop. Back in Musket Cove we have been enjoying the abundant freshwater showers and cold beer of the Musket Cove Yacht Club. When we turned the corner to head toward the mooring balls Maureen looked at me and said "look at all the boats". Whereas we have had this spot to ourselves throughout March and April there are now perhaps a dozen boats taking up residence waiting for the surf to settle in and the fine reliable weather to take hold. It is different now -- but fun and social too.Sophrosynehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01953592892101351750noreply@blogger.com0