Job 5

In the tropics it's "Shade or Die"
We love our new dodger, bimini and boombag.

 So way back last summer when we returned to BC we had a list of 5 big projects that we wanted to work through to have the boat ready to go. There were of course 3 or 4 thousand smaller projects that we have also worked through over the course of the last 12 months. All in all, we are thinking that we are in pretty good shape (touch wood). We often marvel at how patient some of our visitors have been over the past year putting up with various deficiencies and gaps in our understanding of boat systems. Everyone is invited back to see the progress we have made. Patrick, we have come a long way since you and Bev were here a year ago. Gord and Jane, we now have 'sailing under a bimini' figured out so that we can have good access to view the sails without dying in the tropical sun. Ian and Caroline, we now have the watermaker working so that the ritual of cleaning dishes off the stern of the boat is a thing of the past. Brent -- we love our new outboard cowling. That Merc just works now and we no longer live in fear of a moderate sized boat wake. Chris and Anna, you would love that the last of cardboard boxes are gone and there is space to put things away. It's all good!

This past week we have finally gotten to 'Job 5' which is a new furler for our 100% jib. The previous owner of Sophrosyne had removed this inner headstay in favour of a headstay rigged to mid bow which was never really anything more than a handhold getting on and off the boat. We have found that in the tropics -- where the wind blows (just ask any of those people mentioned above) -- we have sailed too much with our 130% genoa and a triple reefed main. In this configuration the boat is unbalanced and the autohelm works extra hard to keep us on track. The boat was designed with a self-tacking 100% jib and we are moving back to that setup hoping that it will allow us to sail with a bit more main showing and a better helm balance.

While we are at it. We have new saloon cushions which make it seem like home. (those are Christopher's clothes on the floor in the forward stateroom just to give it that 'lived in' feeling.

So, in review the Big 5 are:

1.) New dodger/bimini/boom bag (and saloon cushions -- you know, while we are at it) DONE. The old dodger had clears that were so brittle and cracked that even duct tape couldn't keep them alive.

2.) New radar/sonar DONE.

3.) New Max-prop. DONE.

4.) New Lithium Ion battery and modified solar charging DONE. I'm Lovin It. It has been over a month now with no shore charge and we have been squandering energy trying to find the end of our capacity -- watermaker, inverted shop-vac, power tools.

Energy from the sun is just -- magic. It seems silly but I really can't quite get over it.

5.) Back to that furler. We are slow on this one because the furler foil and jibtrack were lost in transit and spent most of a season in New Zealand. Eventually they were delivered (all in good shape) and we are able to get on with that project. We did get some help from Westside Rigging as we needed to have a longer headstay to reach back to the bow again. Happy to report that the new headstay and foil are in place with just the jibtrack left to install. Happy days.

Finishing touches on the new headstay and foil. Thanks to the boys at Westside Rigging for their help through this process.

So, with all this done now we have been making our plans to depart Fiji. We have been saying goodbye to some of our favorite spots as we will leave from Vuda to head west in a couple of weeks. We have 1 small detour (Saltspring Island, BC) for a family wedding but once we return we will be off into the ocean.

That's all for now folks -- more to come in the coming days.

PS.

I was thinking that my note yesterday afternoon was a bit lame and that I should really try a bit more to give a sense of our life here? I was trying to see what it was like to post from the iPad which is our normal link to the Internet. It is not quite so easy to use and I am back sat down in front of the laptop now. Our experience is that we really don't use the laptop too much anymore as most of our day to day activity is more easily handled on the iPad. Navigation, banking, record keeping, research, news, and keeping in touch -- all iPad...

We are enjoying a Sunday afternoon here puttering on the boat and staying ahead of boat tasks, etc. That sound you hear is the watermaker which has been running for a couple of hours now replenishing our tanks. Once the new battery has been installed we have been able to make lots of water. The watermaker uses about 20 amps and we can generate about 15 amps from our solar panels and anywhere from 5 to 15 amps from the windvane. So -- we have water!

And groceries! We are into our second week of cruising with 4 aboard so we are down to the last of the fruit and vegetables. (Still lots of wine, beer, and rum so no real worries). As fortune would have it we were visited by the grocery truck yesterday afternoon and were able to restock. We even had lettuce for supper last night. I will let the photos tell the story of the grocery delivery and say only -- we feel very lucky indeed!

Grocery truck arrives

Getting tied up so that we can have a look at what is on offer

Lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, papaya, limes. Everything one needs for a splendid dinner at anchor.

A nice smile from the checkout clerk

Thanks for the wonderful delivery. Can't help noticing the ballcap -- J24 Australian Championships -- Vinaka

Ok, ok, ok...

So folks have mentioned to me that it has been awhile since we posted onto this blog page. And, since I see that more than a year has passed since the last post here I guess they are right. It's not like I can say that we have been too busy -- but we really have been. Just ask any of our guests over the last two or three months! Right now for example I have the considerable time pressure of getting in to the Blue Lagoon Yacht Club's Happy Hour!

Wait you say, Blue Lagoon Yacht Club?

Yes, we have watched facilities here get pieced together over the last three or four visits such that when we arrived here with Chris and Anna we were actually the very first yachties to have a shower! I will share more about that part in my upcoming coffee table book -- Showers of the Pacific

Not for the first time this year we have found Blue Lagoon a wonderful way to sit out 30-35 knot winds. Although we still get the wind, the surrounding reefs do a grand job of reducing the swell. We had been by ourselves for a few days and feeling a bit lonely but after breakfast we had three new boats all arrive within an hour. As the longstanding resident yachties we felt it was our job to dinghy around and let everyone know about happy hour at 5:00!

It's almost that time now so I will sign off -- but check back frequently cuz you know how good we are at keeping up to date!

It's all good!

Lo's granddaughter, at Lo's Teahouse where we go to get tea and cake.

Off Across the Ocean

Mahili heading off to Vanuatu! Bon voyage!

As we head back into Vuda Point Marina this morning to look into having some 'boat projects' attended to before we put everything away at the end of the month we passed close by good friends Mike and Jennifer Gough who were just leaving for Vanuatu!
Don't they look good with all sails flying in a gentle 15 knots of breeze. In our radio goodbyes Mike lamented that they did not have 25 knots or more. (gotta love them Aussie's)!

Mike and Jennifer waving goodbye to Fiji!

Mike and Jennifer have been a bad influence on us during our time in Fiji as our paths have crossed in a variety of places around the country. Like many other more experienced sailors that have coached us to continue our adventure and explore the wonderful sailing in Indonesia, Malaysia, and beyond. "Pirates" -- "na Doug no worries about Pirates" (gotta love them Aussie's)

Good luck and bon voyage! Hope to see you down the track (or on Vancouver Island).

Thanks!

Lau and Back

BC residents will recognize the Queen of Prince Rupert, now
called the Lomaviti Princess which ferries back and forth between
Suva and Savusavu

You know we are back from visiting the Lau Islands because I am able to post a couple of photos of our visit. While it is not true to say that there is NO Internet in the Exploring Isles, it is a bit of a trick to find it and when you do, the first mission is to get a weather report. Sorry for the gap...

We are back now anchored in Suva Harbour.

Anchored in Bavatu Harbour in the Exploring Isles

Suva Harbour is different from the Lau group and we find ourselves nestled neatly between a raft of what are known locally as 'the rat boats -- don't get too close or they will swim onto your boat' and a rusted sunken steel hulk that will, I am sure, be reported as an 'artificial reef.' Just the same, we are happy to be here and in spite of our proximity to shopping and entertainment we have enjoyed our day just relaxing on the boat. Really, just a few small boat chores and not too much more.

We have been able to replenish our water from the Royal Suva Yacht Club and have been catching up on laundry and cleaning.

Traveling to Lau

The black dotted line is our track into the harbour. The red circle
is our location at anchor. Normally we try to avoid anchoring on
land...

Over the past couple of weeks we have been working our way eastward from Savusavu toward the Lau Islands which are the easternmost part of Fiji. The Lau Islands are the least visited part of Fiji and up until recently it has been difficult to obtain a cruising permit that would even allow one to travel there. Remember that the regular trade winds blow from the east so getting to the Lau Islands means sailing upwind from the more populated parts of Fiji. Our route allowed us to stop in several little harbours along the way. For the last step to windward over the Koro Sea we left our anchor at 03:00 so that we could approach the fringing coral reefs of Vanua belavu at midday when the sun gives the best light to pick our way over the coral reefs.

Wish you were here!

We felt reasonably well prepared for this bit of navigation as we have had many similar encounters throughout our time in Fiji. We have waypoints from previous travelers that guide us in our route planning. This trip was a little different though because the waypoints DID NOT match up with the electronic charts we are using. I know you are thinking 'what does a few metres really matter?'

Well, first of all, we are a bit skeptical of the charting software because since this trip takes us over the 180th degree of longitude we literally have to scroll across the planet to find the other half of our route.

Secondly, the charts are out by about 200 metres in this area leaving the feeling of wearing those 'drunk simulation glasses' they give high school students to show them what DUI driving feels like. Thirdly, our gap in the fringing reef is really only about 30 metres wide in total and you can see waves breaking over coral heads on both sides so a miss can really spoil your day. And lastly, as we are approaching the most critical part of the passage our friends and very experienced sailors aboard a 52' ketch radioed to tell us that they had hit hard just a few hours earlier -- now you have my attention!

The crowded beaches of the Lau Islands.

Gripping the helm tightly (very tightly actually) we managed an undramatic entrance and after making our offer of Sevusevu (kava) to the chief in the local village moved on to some of the most beautiful and dramatic anchorages one can imagine.

One of the fun things about being in such a remote place is that there is an immediate kinship among the few boats that are around you. As a result we enjoyed a number of delightful 'sundowners' and were the recipients of several gifts of baking that I will always be grateful for. Somehow, banana bread at the edge of the world takes on a special importance. All we had to offer was Gin and Tonic. Though to be honest I do not recall anyone complaining about the G&T's either?

This part of Vanua balavu is a Copra plantation and several
families manage the plantation. Here they are preparing a
feast of roast pork and cassava for their yachty guests.

One of our evening adventures was to join in on a Lomaloma 'pig roast' arranged by one of the other yachties. The crews of 4 boats were able to join with a number of local families to eat roast pork and cassava and an evening of drinking kava.

Eventually we had to acknowledge that our dwindling water supply and our failing batteries were to draw us back toward mainland Fiji.

Heading east now with the wind on our aft quarter we made short work of the distance back to Suva. Even dragging our 3 blade fixed prop through the ocean we sailed at 8 and 9 knots with considerable ease using only a triple reefed main and a partially furled headsail. (Mrs. Backhouse says she prefers it that way).

Heading east again the sun sets over our shoulder. This
night we traveled the 170 miles back to Suva.
The boat moves...

While we have enjoyed the showers and yacht club beer we have to admit that the tone on the boat has changed a bit as we are realizing that we are drawing toward the finish of this fabulous few months of learning about the boat and exploring this wonderful land. It is not too long now before we will have to consider the prospect of wearing socks again.

But of course this reality is tempered by an equal dose of scheming for what lies ahead.

Ocean debris -- Lau style

Kakoda Salad and other Wins in Savusavu

Lunch at the Surf & Turf. Kakoda Salad and
home made ice cream for dessert.

We have had a good day in Savusavu today. As previously reported, Maureen had thrown our perfectly good stovetop grill into the ocean about a week ago and we have had a bit of a time managing to hold the pot while the water boiled.

A replacement is no big deal -- in Vancouver -- bit a little trickier in Fiji.

But, we went to the applicance store and asked if they had something that might suit. The fellow brought us out an old grill that had been in his storage room and said we could just take it.

Well, a little head scratching and a little hacksawing and we are back in business. We have two of the three elements back in working order and, well, lets face it who ever uses that third element anyway.

Next, we were able to procure a new aluminium LPG tank which is again no mean feat... I had gone to fill the tank a couple of weeks ago and the fellow said the valve needed to be replaced. No problem, I prefer to have a non-leaking valve anyway so just go ahead. Well you see, we ruined the threads when we took the valve out. No worries, we'll just buy a new tank. Sorry we don't have any aluminium tanks. No problem, we'll grab one in Suva (the capital of Fiji). Sorry none there either. We do have a couple in Savusavu. On well then, no worries.

On top of that we lucked into the local cruiser's net and ended up splitting the cab 5 ways. It's all good!

And we were back in time for lunch. Again, based on tips from the cruiser's net we dropped into the Surf & Turf and had a fabulous lunch with change left over for a double scoop of homemade ice cream.

All in all, a pretty good day. Looking forward to seeing what tomorrow brings.

Across the Koro Sea

We arrived back in Savusavu yesterday after an enjoyable afternoon sailing up from Makogi Island.

Scudding along at 7 or 8 knots with a double reefed main and genoa.

Our Plan in the morning had been to stop at Koro Island but once we were out and sailing we realized that the usual southeast winds were more from the east the trip to Koro Island looked to have some closehauled sailing. Closehauled is something we have so far avoided on our journey and so we decided to maintain the 'clean sheet' yesterday as well.

The Koro Sea is about the middle of Fiji Islands (if there is such a thing). It is different from much of our other cruising because the water is 2000 feet deep. This makes it less important watching the depth instruments.

We had a lovely time at Makogi Island.  After we arrived there we went ashore to present our Sevusevu. Makogi is mariculture centre operated by the Fiji department of Fisheries. The island's caretaker toured us through their facilities showing us the giant clam's that they grow to seed the reefs of Fiji. The giant clams are actually 'giant' and it is pretty cool to see how they are grown and cultured.

Enjoying a beautiful day in the Pacific.

But the most interesting aspect of Makogi is the leporsorium which operated from 1911 to 1962. It is a strange and interesting thing to walk through this facility which was essentially a town complete with cinema and jail in the middle of the pacific. We had a great conversion with the caretaker about the residual spirits of this 100 year old medical facility.