Lau and Back

BC residents will recognize the Queen of Prince Rupert, now
called the Lomaviti Princess which ferries back and forth between
Suva and Savusavu

You know we are back from visiting the Lau Islands because I am able to post a couple of photos of our visit. While it is not true to say that there is NO Internet in the Exploring Isles, it is a bit of a trick to find it and when you do, the first mission is to get a weather report. Sorry for the gap...

We are back now anchored in Suva Harbour.

Anchored in Bavatu Harbour in the Exploring Isles

Suva Harbour is different from the Lau group and we find ourselves nestled neatly between a raft of what are known locally as 'the rat boats -- don't get too close or they will swim onto your boat' and a rusted sunken steel hulk that will, I am sure, be reported as an 'artificial reef.' Just the same, we are happy to be here and in spite of our proximity to shopping and entertainment we have enjoyed our day just relaxing on the boat. Really, just a few small boat chores and not too much more.

We have been able to replenish our water from the Royal Suva Yacht Club and have been catching up on laundry and cleaning.

Traveling to Lau

The black dotted line is our track into the harbour. The red circle
is our location at anchor. Normally we try to avoid anchoring on
land...

Over the past couple of weeks we have been working our way eastward from Savusavu toward the Lau Islands which are the easternmost part of Fiji. The Lau Islands are the least visited part of Fiji and up until recently it has been difficult to obtain a cruising permit that would even allow one to travel there. Remember that the regular trade winds blow from the east so getting to the Lau Islands means sailing upwind from the more populated parts of Fiji. Our route allowed us to stop in several little harbours along the way. For the last step to windward over the Koro Sea we left our anchor at 03:00 so that we could approach the fringing coral reefs of Vanua belavu at midday when the sun gives the best light to pick our way over the coral reefs.

Wish you were here!

We felt reasonably well prepared for this bit of navigation as we have had many similar encounters throughout our time in Fiji. We have waypoints from previous travelers that guide us in our route planning. This trip was a little different though because the waypoints DID NOT match up with the electronic charts we are using. I know you are thinking 'what does a few metres really matter?'

Well, first of all, we are a bit skeptical of the charting software because since this trip takes us over the 180th degree of longitude we literally have to scroll across the planet to find the other half of our route.

Secondly, the charts are out by about 200 metres in this area leaving the feeling of wearing those 'drunk simulation glasses' they give high school students to show them what DUI driving feels like. Thirdly, our gap in the fringing reef is really only about 30 metres wide in total and you can see waves breaking over coral heads on both sides so a miss can really spoil your day. And lastly, as we are approaching the most critical part of the passage our friends and very experienced sailors aboard a 52' ketch radioed to tell us that they had hit hard just a few hours earlier -- now you have my attention!

The crowded beaches of the Lau Islands.

Gripping the helm tightly (very tightly actually) we managed an undramatic entrance and after making our offer of Sevusevu (kava) to the chief in the local village moved on to some of the most beautiful and dramatic anchorages one can imagine.

One of the fun things about being in such a remote place is that there is an immediate kinship among the few boats that are around you. As a result we enjoyed a number of delightful 'sundowners' and were the recipients of several gifts of baking that I will always be grateful for. Somehow, banana bread at the edge of the world takes on a special importance. All we had to offer was Gin and Tonic. Though to be honest I do not recall anyone complaining about the G&T's either?

This part of Vanua balavu is a Copra plantation and several
families manage the plantation. Here they are preparing a
feast of roast pork and cassava for their yachty guests.

One of our evening adventures was to join in on a Lomaloma 'pig roast' arranged by one of the other yachties. The crews of 4 boats were able to join with a number of local families to eat roast pork and cassava and an evening of drinking kava.

Eventually we had to acknowledge that our dwindling water supply and our failing batteries were to draw us back toward mainland Fiji.

Heading east now with the wind on our aft quarter we made short work of the distance back to Suva. Even dragging our 3 blade fixed prop through the ocean we sailed at 8 and 9 knots with considerable ease using only a triple reefed main and a partially furled headsail. (Mrs. Backhouse says she prefers it that way).

Heading east again the sun sets over our shoulder. This
night we traveled the 170 miles back to Suva.
The boat moves...

While we have enjoyed the showers and yacht club beer we have to admit that the tone on the boat has changed a bit as we are realizing that we are drawing toward the finish of this fabulous few months of learning about the boat and exploring this wonderful land. It is not too long now before we will have to consider the prospect of wearing socks again.

But of course this reality is tempered by an equal dose of scheming for what lies ahead.

Ocean debris -- Lau style