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| Going walkabout on Moorea. |
So, we are anchored off the island of Raiatea, part of the Iles Sous-le-Vent (Leeward Islands) in French Polynesia (FP). A nice spot at the foot of a long bay. It's summer here in the southern hemisphere. I mention that because it factors into our lives in lots of different ways. Canadian readers will think of summer as a good thing -- we like summer. In FP it has a slightly different undertone because summer also equals cyclone season. Not that it's too hot. Temps are in the range with a high of 29 and a low of 28.
Cyclone season really matters -- well -- because of the cyclones.
Cyclones are fairly rare, well at least not a daily occurrence. And they rarer still in the eastern pacific where we are. They don't seem to happen at all in eastern parts of FP (Marquesas, Gambiers), but they do occur from time to time here. So we pay attention.
Cyclone avoidance strategies for cruisers are shifting with the spectacular advances in forecasting- there is often lots of warning. As communications have improved we are able to get forecasts quickly and reliably. And, in theory at least boats have become more spritely so that it is possible to simply get out of the way. That's the theory.
So far so good. We are about 1/2 way through summer now so our risks diminish with each passing week. In theory.
But that is not what prompted me to sit down and add to this blog this morning. I was thinking to focus on a couple of observations about our experience in FP. I thought I would describe a couple of experiences from our trip into Uturora yesterday.
FP is set up for tourists. We are about 13 km from town and there really isn't any good way to get there. We asked at the tourist information the other day and they directed us to the taxi stand. (it's about $50 cab fare for the 13 km ride). Maureen asked about buses and she was told that they really wouldn't be suitable for us. She persisted and we did get some sparse information. FP is set up for tourists.
Going in to town is a big day for us. There really aren't any other cruisers around (see above) and boats that we do see are either local french boats, or one week catamaran charters. Neither of these groups are much into socializing with cruisers. Occasional readers of this blog will know that visiting is one of the things we enjoy most about life on the boat.
Anyway, off we go to Uturoa. Well the bus information was sketchy so that didn't work out. We stick out our thumbs and were able to catch a ride into town in about 3 minutes. Nice.
Our first stop in Uturoa, actually the main reason we made the trip was to visit the marina office. That went well. A friendly conversation and, we hope, a good outcome. One of those times when I am so glad that I am travelling with a professor francais...
After this win, we sat on a bench to watch the flurry of action as there was a big cruise ship in town. The couple next to us was from Australia and we ended up hearing about their 'cruising plans.' The conversation started with them saying "we were in Fakarava the day before yesterday." That is noteworthy to our ears because it has taken us since November to travel from Fakarava. The second thing was the visual image of this fairly large cruise ship at Fakarava. It is 11 storeys tall, and Fakarava is about 3 metres above sea level. There are likely 3 or 4 times as many people on the boat as there are on the island. The conversation carried on and we heard of their cruising adventures over the course of about 3 months that would see them visiting Antarctica and the Aleutians, Seattle and the Seycelles. Amazing. We waved goodbye and carried on with our shopping.
First stop the patisserie. Well it was almost lunch time. Even I have to admit that this little shop is an equal to anything in the Metropole.(Paris)
Exquisite baking beautifully presented. I had a quiche, Maureen had a chocolate slice seven layer sparkle bedecked extravaganza.
Then to the grocery store, we didn't buy too much, we weren't really all that hungry anyway.
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| For some reason we don't seem to take as many photos as we used to. This one is gratuitous and arises from a demonstration of 'portrait mode' on the new iphone. Looks pretty good to me! |
And then the ride home. We happened to be walking out of town when Maureen noticed the bus. Even though I said don't bother, she checked and wouldn't you know it's our bus! Cool! And the bus was fun. I got on first and a cheerful grandma grabbed my arm and showed me where to sit. Maureen got on later and eventually the bus filled up with people with their shopping, and kids, friends. It is not clear to me that anyone except us actually paid to ride the bus but for 400 XPF it was worth it. We visited with my granny (Maureen interpreting) and learned that she was actually a great great granny and that Maureen had better be careful with such a handsome looking man as me!
Halfway home the bus stopped at a different store and about 1/2 the people got out to carry on with their shopping. It was obvious that we were not getting off so one of the mom's asked Maureen if she wouldn't mind holding her 3 month old little girl. No ceremony, just here ya go, back in 10 minutes! Try that at home! A privilege, and a joy. It made both our days and I never even got to hold her.
Well, that's what a day looks like for us at the moment. Pretty simple, pretty relaxed, but full of unexpected fun. I wonder what today will bring?
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| One last gratuitous photo. This is NOT what it looks like outside today. This is Hueripiti Bay on Tahaa about a week ago. Today we have grey skies and slashing (though still warm) rain. We are inside today! |
